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Revenge of the Rhodesian Flycatcher 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Phyllis Suggett and Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: May through October
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 6, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Phyllie on FA


We were so conflicted setting this line. Finding good rock in the Jungle requires vertical to over-hanging which eliminates the weathering to some extent. We are trying to establish more 8s and 9s but they are hard to find here on decent rock. This line is vertical but had tons of choss both on the face and in the crack. By spending a day crow-barring tons of death blocks away we exposed some nice and stable edges on the face. Then, because the best line wandered back and forth across the crack and there are still some structural weaknesses, we committed to a strictly sport route in an effort to save 5.8 and 9 climbers having to interpret rock quality while placing gear. We believe this was a safe compromise.

The route starts on a bouldery face which requires a lieback to gain feet for a left moving traverse. Then the moves are back and forth across the crack on big face edges. The path is obvious following the well bolted line. The exit mantle or the start is the crux depending on your strengths and/or weaknesses. There is an easier start that requires leading directly up under the second bolt but would be a bad fall if you missed the clip! You would also miss the recommended opening moves and easy first bolt.


As of 7/5/15 this is the most northEASTerly route in the Jungle and is just right of the Blue Nile, another fine moderate.


Seven QDs and runners for the chains.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Well done Phyllie!  Bold FA
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