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Kevin leading the runout crux pitch (5.8+) during ...
The route incorporates one of the most distinguishable features on Marcy’s East Face, an 80’ arrowhead looking flake near the bottom center. The route is a deceptively foreshortened and stout adventure climb featuring textured face climbing, layback cracks and a scary unprotected start on pitch 3. The FA of was day-hiked from the Garden in 21 hours/40 minutes with a night exit through the northern talus field.
After a 9 mile (6.5 hour) approach, start on the lowest section of slab below the arrowhead flake.
P1: 190’ 5.7 PG (easy 5th R)
Begin on easy runout slab to a right rising grassy crack leading to a right rising overlap with a handcrack underneath. Follow the overlap to its end and traverse right to a 4” crack at the bottom of the arrowhead flake. Climb past a small tree-island and belay.
P2: 130’ 5.5 PG
Continue up the flake to its top. Follow right rising cracks/face climb to the left side of a tree island under a large nearly vertical overlap. Belay from small crack under overlap.
P3: 140’ 5.8+ X
Step right behind tree island and climb a featured face for 30’-40’ feet to the first gear (5.8+). Avoid the appealing dihedral/detached block to the right. I was going to use this to climb and for pro (which the photo shows) and found it to be just sitting in place. Continue up easier face over several overlaps toward the two obvious huge blocks. Make a sketchy traverse under the right-hand block to a right facing corner and belay.
P4: 140’ 5.5 PG Continue up the right-facing corner with an off-width beneath to easier “moonrock” slab. Drift left to the end of the obvious broken ledges at its top. Continue up two small ledges and belay from stout trees at the base of the upper cliff band.
Mt. Marcy East Face about 75' north of Ranger on the Rock. Rappel down the central gully of the East Face a few hundred feet north.
Full rack to 4". Doubles of 3 & 4 would be handy as well as green & yellow aliens.
BETA PHOTO: Mosaic of Revelations with key areas.
By Nolan Huther
Aug 30, 2016
P3 has some of my favorite face climbing I've ever touched, on par with Broken Broom at Crane, but easier and not as sustained, unfortunately, albeit with superior friction properties. Similar to the Sunshine City Slab but more quality and features. The X rating is not to be taken lightly here - luckily I did not lead the X sections but it is a very committing lead for sure, especially when you consider the location. The first 3 pitches make a great route, fourth pitch is best if dry