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Reusable Love Bag 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: (lower portion) Alvino Pon, Eddie Pain, 1993
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Mitch Musci on Jun 27, 2011

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This route starts near the middle of the main face next to a large pine tree. It shares the first bolt with Too Many Puppies. Scramble up a moderate slab to an open cold shut, then bust left through a series of small roofs (crux) and continue up an immaculate slab to a two bolt rappel anchor. With a 70m, we could reach the ground fine, a 60m MAY just make it...tie knots! As of 6/11, the anchor bolts were a terrible looking, rusted buttonhead with a homemade hanger, and a rusted wedge bolt with a beefy Metolius rap hanger. Gillett's guide notes a second pitch which continues up and left past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9-). A third pitch goes up at 5.9 R to a single bolt anchor. More options may exist above (apparently a project?).

Forgive me, as I have only climbed the first pitch but thought others might be psyched to at least know there is excellent cragging here.


P1 - 6 bolts plus small to medium cams.

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By George Bracksieck
Jul 2, 2012

On Oct 9, 1994, I led Brenda Leach up the whole climb to the top and walked off. The third bolt on pitch two had a red ribbon. I clipped it and continued up, trending a bit left, clipping an old two-bolt anchor along the way. On third pitch, I clipped a fixed pin under the left end of the long upper roof, turned the roof on the left, and followed easier terrain. Near the top, we moved right and crawled through a bulge in the moonlight.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2016

If you climb to the top, you probably don't want to go to the P3 single bolt anchor. While climbing P3, trend left instead of going through the steeper part of the dihedral roof (bad rock). You might not see the kinfeblade mentioned in the previous post until you are at it. After that, find your way up easier ground to the summit. There were occasional 1 bolt anchors here and there. Ends up being about 5-6 pitches in total.

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