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Aimless Foreshadowing  T,TR 
Air T 
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 
Phallus in Wonderland T 
Return of the Chucklehead's T 
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 

Return of the Chucklehead's 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Leo and Wenzel
Page Views: 1,463
Submitted By: Corey Morris on May 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Paul Wagener leading the crux of "??". 1...


Pitch 1: Another tricky start to the crack that goes straight then angles right to the crux. Good gear stance to fish in small wires before the crux move. Then 4th class angling right to a one move pull on a ledge. On the north end of the air spire are 2 bolt anchors. The anchors at the top of this climb are not the same anchors as "Air". 5.9

Pitch 2: From belay anchor look right and take the chimney to the top of the spire. Two bolt anchors at top and allow for rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope.
Good fun climb. 5.6/7


From "Air" go directly down hill and turn left, this is the right-hand crack on this wall.


Standard rack. 2 really small wires to protect crux move. Some larger cams for the 2nd pitch. Pro seemed good.

Photos of Return of the Chucklehead's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Wagener on the "??" 5.9 on Air Spir...
Paul Wagener on the "??" 5.9 on Air Spir...

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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 18, 2009

Nice job. I have looked at this crack many times, and never got on it.

What belay station are you at at the end of pitch 1? I have been on the top of the Air Spire, I don't remember any bolted belay at the top.
By Kris Gorny
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

John, there's a pair of bolts with slings on the obvious ledge at the end of pitch 1 and on top of the Air Spire.
By Leo Hski
Dec 18, 2009

Led in the mid 80's if not earlier. We brushed about 800 pounds of leaves and pine needles off this.

Good climbing.
By Mark Wenzel
Nov 12, 2010

It's 5.7.
By Leo Hski
Oct 18, 2011

Mark- don't go downgrading our already modest achievements.

Mark and I did this after an aborted road trip out west. I had pulled a finger tendon and Mark had rolled an ankle so we retreated to the familiar comforts of Wisconsin.
By Matt Skorina
From: Bend, OR
Nov 30, 2015

I pitched it out with a gear anchor at the end of the 4th class directly inline with the climb. You could see through to the tunnel of Phallus in Wonderland from the belay. Pretty small gear here. Then continued straight up paralleling Air on what might have been a 5.7 PG13. Finished at the anchors of Air. In hindsight probably could have done the thing in one big pitch.

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