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Return of Cakewalk 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Steven Reneau on Mar 21, 2016

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Some areas require a guide.

Description 

Fun climbing up left side of Cakewalk Wall. Maybe some 5.7 moves, but largely 5.6 or easier. p1: 100 feet to 2-bolt anchors. We climbed left around "umbrella-size hueco" described in Sherman, then slightly right to anchors. p2: 100 feet to 2-bolt anchors. Stay left at wall near top to find anchors.

Location 

From base of Cakewalk, walk left ~50 feet around large boulder, then scramble up between two boulders to where you can climb right up dark pocketed boulder towards main wall (4th or low 5th class). Route starts on flat top of higher boulder to left, reached by scrambling left between this boulder and main wall. To descend, rap the route with 60 m rope (intermediate anchor may not be obvious, so tying knots in ends of rope is recommended).

Protection 

Nuts, small cams, and runners. 2 bolt anchors at top of p1 and p2.


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