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Retrospective 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 900'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Mikey Schaefer and Nils Davis '05
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Mikey Schaefer on Dec 1, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Real shitty topo for Retrospective

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Route was established ground-up during the summer of '05. This is definitely an old school style meadows route. The bolts aren't exactly where you want or need them but where they could be drilled. Though the hardest move is protected fairly well. The second pitch is probably the mental crux with only 5 bolts in 200' of sustained 5.10 climbing with one 10+ move way above a bolt. This pitch might be tad longer than 200' so be ready to simul a small bit or bring a longer rope.

Pitch 4 shares some climbing with an unreported route, Quasimodo, established by Tom Carter back in the day. Really fun and exposed pitch. Pitch 5 holds the hardest technical bits and require solid footwork and mantling ability. The end of this pitch pulls a really cool roof that Fairest of All traverses underneath. This actually makes a much better exit for Fairest of All as it avoids the funky and long traverse out right. Hemispheres could also be exited this way.

Overall this is high quality and extremely engaging route on excellent rock. Classic Fairview Dome.

Possibly only repeated once by Bob Jensen and Sean Kriletich less than a week after the FA.

Location 

Starts right of the big Plastic Exploding corner and left of Hemispheres.

Protection 

Sparsely bolted.

2x Green C3 to .75 Camalot
1x Purple C3, #1, #2 Camalot

Numerous long slings


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By bob jensen
Jan 19, 2016

If you like an old school route with new school hardware, this is it!! Seriously, Retrospective is fantastic Fairview climbing. I'm sure glad I lost the toss (won!!) for who lead pitch two. Immaculate climbing with some serious runouts when it counts, but it's only 5.10 right? The Iceman had a bit to with that I believe. Mikey? The crux is oh so thin. For me, it was a clip the bolts while sliding scenario. Big thumbs up. One of the best. Nice work y'all.
By tarallo
Jul 28, 2016

Hi ,
can I have more details about the route?
A better topo?
thanks
By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 28, 2016

Unfortunately I don't think a better topo will make this route any easier. (not to mention the topo I posted is actually pretty good for fairview dome...)

And I'm not sure this route has seen a 3rd ascent yet. I haven't been hanging around TM lately but I think I would've heard if someone has gone up there. Might be worth swinging by the TM sar site and ask around there.
By andjoely
From: Menlo Park, CA
Sep 11, 2016

The pin on P1 fell out when we clipped it so is no longer there. There is gear about 6 feet lower so it should not be an issue. The crux felt hard for the grade. One of the potato chip-like flakes I used at the crux crumbled a little when I stood up on it so the route might be a tiny bit harder now. The steep climbing after the crux was amazing as was most of the route. Awesome climbing.

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