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YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1986
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward.

Climb just to the left the rounded arete shared with the start of Ten of Spades. balance your way up the vertical face using incuts and some high-stepping magic to gain the diagonal crack.

At this point place that #1 Camalot you toted along with you in the crack, and make some tenuous moves back up and right to gain the next series of crimps protected by several more bolts to the top where the angle lessens and the climbing becomes noticably easier.


On the right side of the cliff is the route Ten of Spades. This route climbs jsut to the left on the face.


5 or 6 bolts and a #1 Camalot. chain anchors.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 11, 2009

There has been a fixed nut in the crack for a long time now so you don't have to bring the #1 mentioned in the description...
By Andrew Mertens
From: Berkeley, CA
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

The nut's gone so bring the cam.
By S. Neoh
May 4, 2013

The FA'ist was told today that the nut is no longer there.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Sep 20, 2015

I wonder if Retrospade will ever get a bolt near the horizontal crack?
By S. Neoh
Sep 20, 2015

I checked with the FA'ist of RS three or four years ago and the answer was "no". In the past, there was occasionally a "fixed nut" in the crack. Can't say I have seen that lately tho.
By nomadian
From: MA
Oct 6, 2015

Great climb. Found the onsight tough but once the sequence was figured out it's not too bad. #2 camelot is bomber in that crack, no bolt needed

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