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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Art Gran, Peter Himot, 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1961
Page Views: 9,878
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (220)
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Jeff Arliss underneath the crux


This is the companion route to the left of Nosedive. I thought that this route was harder than Nosedive, but once you figure out the move it is not too bad.

P1: Follow a right-facing dihedral to the left of Nosedive to a small roof. The gear leading up to the roof and past the crux can be tricky. Once you make the hard move at the roof, the climbing eases off. Head right at the top, and join Nosedive at the 2-bolt anchor. Rap with one rope.


Gear to 2.5"

Photos of Retribution Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)
Above the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)
Rock Climbing Photo: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
Rock Climbing Photo: Melissa on Retribution
Melissa on Retribution
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the crux
Pulling through the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet climb!
Sweet climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top
Nearing the top
Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux.  (photo by Dave Merle)
In the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)

Comments on Retribution Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Nickel
Jun 5, 2006

A great route! 5.10b, three stars, PG gear (a reasonably safe onsight lead). Not as sustained as Nosedive but with a harder crux.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

I found this route to be much easier and less sustained than Nosedive, probably because I'm "short". There's basically one hard crank on a rounded crimp pulling over the roof. The rest is much easier. Great rock, but its getting pretty polished.
By BenCooper
Oct 12, 2008

I found that my key piece of pro at the roof ate up the key undercling; it was a choice between a solid piece or good hold. Great route.
Apr 27, 2009

the undercling isn't "key" there is a solid meat hook on the arete. this leaves the undercling open for a perfect yellow alien.
By chewtoynj
From: NJ
May 28, 2010

a .75 camalot fits nicely below the roof. It looks weird, but works well, leaving the undercling accessable and protected. my second gunks 5.10 onsight.
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Today I watched Tommy Caldwell cruise it in completely soaking wet conditions.

Extra fun fact: He climbed it in approach shoes and no chalk.
By SketchySam
Nov 15, 2011

I love this route. Super fun, sustained and great pro. Somehow this route gets rated a PG but Bunny to the left gets rated a G. I actually think it's the opposite. I remember being able to place as much pro as anyone could ever want on Retribution but I remember the pro on Bunny being kind of sketchy.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Placed an odd-looking .75 behind the "rest jug" before the crux moves instead of placing pro in the finger pocket. Doing so made the crux much much easier. Above the crux the are a few good rests and then a tougher move(maybe 5.9 or so) to a good jug.

Also fell from a few feet above the .75 a few weeks ago and it held fine.
By crackatoa Spiesbach
From: Boulder,Co
Mar 14, 2016

I dunno if I botch the sequence on nosedive or if that climb is just really hard on a short under 5'6" person. Retro feels pretty straightforward to me..You can do the crux about 3-4 different ways and I've seen people make it look substantially harder than 10.b and also much easier...

Also this climb gets super greasy on hot humid days so be carful. I found out the hard way but I was happy to know that the .75 cam in the funky slot holds just fine!
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Sep 29, 2016

The .75 Camalot looks pretty crappy to me. Glad it holds. I found a 2.0 hard stem Friend fits much more nicely.

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