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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown, resurrected by Gary Clark
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Follow the bolts up, watching yourself clipping the third bolt (possible grounding potential). Crux is down low between the first and third bolts. Eases way up toward the top. The story on this route is that this route was a "botched, abandened project redone and finished in 2003 (online guide)." The Taos Rock book notes this route is "loose and contrived and should have been left dead." My personal take on the route was that it was OK (worth doing but not great), didn't find anything loose, and a fine route to climb if the wind is blowing at 30mph, it is cold, and there is not much more in the sun to climb (south facing)!


Starts on the south facing end of the crag, just right of the route going directly up the arete (The Matrix, 5.11c).


6 bolts to anchors.

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By HoseBeats
Apr 28, 2009

I actually enjoyed this route. There was only a few loose looking things near the very top. Less than vertical, with hard to see holds, and technical movement. A good route in my book.
By GummyBears
Apr 29, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree. Techy and hard to find those "jugs."
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 19, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I also enjoyed this route. A stick clip for the first bolt would be nice and I did notice a couple juicy-looking hand-sized cobbles up high that looked like they could pull off. But they weren't loose. If you're one of those climbers that likes your routes meticulously cleaned, you may want to skip this one (or go clean it up).

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