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8th Rule, The S 
Firestarter S 
Hueco Thanks (?) S 
Restless in Paradise S 
Seam Surreal S 
Staring Without Caring S 
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Urban Refugee S 
Urban Refugee Start S 

Restless in Paradise 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: FFA Ben Gilkison, bolted in current form by Ryan Triplett
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jun 20, 2017

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Description 

This is the right of two extensions to Firestarter. Climb that route and head up and slightly right on steepening rock and large edges to a tough initial boulder problem. Try to shake out and then tackle the harder sequence above on the pocketed limestone-like headwall. Some will have to use vicious tiny pockets while others will have an easier time making a long reach to slightly better holds a few feet to the left. Either way culminates in powerful climbing through to the end. Easily the best route at the crag.

Location 

The right of two extensions to Firestarter that goes slightly right and then straight up the steep headwall above.

Protection 

Bolts (14 or so). Currently Firestarter is equipped with permadraws but you'll have to hang your own on Restless. One of the bolts on the lower crux of Restless was loose as of 2015 and probably hasn't yet been fixed. Anchors have lowering hardware.


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By blakeherrington
Jul 20, 2017

The huge right hand pocket near the top is one of the coolest features on a sport route in the area. It's almost too bad that there are semi-decent edges to the side of the blue streak. Doing it OG (AKA Ben G) style via just those pockets would be fierce!

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