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Pillar Wall
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Parallel Universe T 
Resting Bitch Face T 

Resting Bitch Face 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Casey Niggemyer, Eric Deschamps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Eric D on Sep 28, 2015

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Description 

A moderate finger crack with only one move of 10d. Climb the dihedral to the ledge and then trend up and right from the ledge.

Location 

10 feet east of Parallel Universe. As you rap down you will see an obvious right facing dihedral with a finger crack in the corner that ends 3/4 of the way up the cliff. Rap to the base of the dihedral to a small grassy ledge.

If you stand on the Canary Crack buttress that juts out and look east you will see an obvious corner facing you about 30 feet over with a finger crack in it. That's the climb.

Protection 

A set of nuts down to BD #4. Cams between .3 and 1 with triples of .4s, .5s, and .75s.

The anchor is a .4 and .5 crack - any combination of cams in that range will do.


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By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Sep 28, 2015

It is possible that the finger crack has been climbed before but we cleaned a good bit of stuff off. The upper section had a sketchy teeter-totter block on it and had not been climbed.