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Avalanche Gulch 
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Responsible Family Men 

WI5-

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'
Original: WI5- [details]
FA: Alex Lowe, John Wasson
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Seth Kane on Jan 13, 2016

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SK & DK

Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There are several ways to approach this climb and several alternate starts- I will describe the easiest route to reach the base of the ice.

Approach as per avalanche gulch and climb the first moderate ice step (WI3-). Continue up the snow gully until a obvious bench heads off left just before you enter the steep canyon containing the upper more difficult pitches of Avalanche Gulch. Traverse along this bench at roughly the same elevation until you can see Responsible Family Men. Once you reach the gully containing Responsible Family Men you have two options- you can descend into the gully for the more difficult mixed starts or the left side scramble or take the easier right side scramble.

For the easier approach backtrack to climbers right until you see an easy route (Low 5th) up the short fifteen foot cliff band above you to a narrow bench. Traverse this bench (4th and exposed- Winter Dance calls this 5.6 so it's possibly harder with low snow) crawling under the occasional overhang until just before the base of the ice where you will reach a small alcove in which a belay can be built with small-medium cams or knifeblades. Traverse along the last 20 feet of snow and ice crust to gain the pillar.

Location 

First ice flow to the left of avalanche gully. Approach as per avalanche gully.

Protection 

Screws to a two bolt anchor on the left


Photos of Responsible Family Men Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Not as bad as it looks, but still pretty darn sket...
Not as bad as it looks, but still pretty darn sket...
Rock Climbing Photo: Danny Kaiser traversing in to the start of Respons...
Danny Kaiser traversing in to the start of Respons...

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