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Resisting Arrest 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3 [details]
FA: Jamie Munro and Joshua Thompson (April '05)
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Bryan G on May 19, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Route overlay for Resisting Arrest (as we climbed ...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Kind of a funky route with dirty sections, shitty rock, and not-so-obvious route finding. Resisting Arrest is located between the Yellow Corner and Voices of the Drowned. Walk the base to the left of the Watchtower and scramble up some 3rd class with a big tree. The climb starts near a large oak tree just past a clearing.

Pitch 1 (A3) Not exactly sure how this starts, but you're aiming for some steep aid cracks on the overhang to the right of a large right-facing chimney/corner. After the overhang is a fixed pin with lower-out tat. Lower way down and penji into the dirty gully to the right, then climb past a small tree to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 1 off-route variation (5.9 A1) Climb the big obvious wide crack up the right-facing corner (horrible rock quality). Belay at the top of a pedestal. Then aid out the small roof to the right to get back on route at the fixed pin and penji. If you belay at the top of the pedestal, then you can link the rest of the regular first pitch w/the second and avoid the hanging belay.

Pitch 2 (5.8 A3-) Climb the shallow chimney, exit out the right side of a roof and climb a thin crack trending up and right to a bolted anchor. Few body-lengths of nailing towards the end.

Pitch 3 (A2) Three rivets lead to a steep beak crack with one more rivet. After the overhang work up and left to a flake, then choose from a couple different variations to finish at another bolted anchor.

Pitch (5.8R C2) Aid dirty cracks and features up and right. Eventually you need to head straight up on some loose rock and through a small roof. I went up and right as high as I could until the crack seamed-out above a ledge and then tensioned left to mantel a shelf and free climb up a left-facing offwidth flake. The start of this flake is difficult to protect/aid. Above the roof is a bit of easy climbing to a ledge and tree.

Pitch 5 (5.5+) Scramble up and left on easy ledges and flakes to join the huge obvious corner. The angle kicks back at the very end. This pitch is at least 5.9.

To descend:

Scramble down the back side, cross Bridalveil Creek and go down the Gunsight. Ideal, but only possible during low water.

Or rappel the route with two 60m ropes. For the first rap we went off a big pine tree and moved the knot past the lip. Rapping pitch 2 will require placing directionls and some shenanigans. Also bring some webbing and rap rings to leave for anchors.

Protection 

Triples of small to 1.5" cams. Doubles to 3", and a single set of the big cams (we brought a #6 and used it)

At least 3 beaks of each size, a few blades, a few arrows.

Nuts, camhooks, slings ect... I don't recall doing any hook moves on the route but we didn't do that first A3 pitch. There were only a couple fixed heads on the route and they didn't seem that essential.


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