Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adipose T 
Aerie Interlude T 
Alchemy T 
Bushwhacker T 
California Weakender T 
Chinese Chicken T 
Compleat Angler, The T 
Dame El Oro T 
Diminishing Returns T 
Double Trouble T 
Electric Chair T 
Fall Line T 
Fingerlings T 
Fire and Sage T 
Fissuremen T 
Full Clip T 
Fun Soup T 
Gas Chamber T,TR 
Gateway T 
Geologic Time T 
Gold Rush T 
Guillotine, The T 
Hip to Toe T 
Horse With No Name T 
JR Token T 
Landing a Monster T 
Long March, The T 
Martian Chronicles, The T 
May Fly, The T 
Midas Touch T 
Monster T 
Mr. Squiggles T 
Muffin Top T 
Out of the Question T 
Out Ridin' Fences T 
Pan Handlin' T 
Pumphouse Park T 
Purple Pinky Eater T 
Question Air Box, The T 
Redd Alert T 
Redside T 
Reservation Blues T 
Rightway T 
River Wide, The T 
Rocinante T 
Shushaynsh T,TR 
Slim Pickens T 
Space Between, The T 
Space Mission T 
Steelhead T 
Straightway T 
Suzuki T 
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 
Time Bomb T 
Two Step Left T 
Two Step Right T 
U3 T,TR 
U4 T 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 T 
Wengerbanger T 
Winter Sustenance T 
Wondertwins T 

Reservation Blues 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger 2/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,411
Submitted By: WallyFox on Sep 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Wally putting in the time.

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Crux is right at the start! Then sustained fingers to the top!

Location 

left of JR

Protection 

lots of blue metolius

Reservation Blues 

Hard to put gear in at the beginning.

Protection 

Purple works good too!

Description 

Cody is a Mad Man!

Location 

Right of winter sustenance and full clip

Protection 

probably an orange and yellow metolius as well.


Photos of Reservation Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: And putting in the airtime...
And putting in the airtime...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody on the first ascent!
Cody on the first ascent!

Comments on Reservation Blues Add Comment
Show which comments
By WallyFox
Mar 29, 2015

How many people have sent this? I know of two, Cody and Jesse - anyone know of anyone else?
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 19, 2015
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

This thing is soooo good. Short, powerful cruxes with excellent rests interspersed throughout. Definitely longer than 90' tho. A 70m is kind of mandatory. (a 60 works with shenanigans) My perfect rack: 3x purple Mastercams, 6x blue, 2x red C3s, 2x yellow Mastercams, 2x yellow C3s. I´d also disagree that putting gear in early on is hard. There is maybe one powerful placement and then it´s not too bad.
By CBecker
From: Portland, OR
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Max's gear beta is good, however climbers w a smaller sack, such as myself, may want 9-10 in the blue metolius/green alien size
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Oct 5, 2016
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Chuck, I feel like a bit of an ass-I looked at an old rack photo and discovered that I accidentally omitted 2x green aliens from my gear beta above. That would bring the total up to 10 blue-sized pieces for the route. Sorry for any inadvertent sandbagging!