REI Community
Middle Finger Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Pocket of Like'N T 
Balcony, The T,TR 
Connect The Cracks T 
Flexible Flyer TR 
High Five  T 
Iron Curtain TR 
Middle Finger T 
Pillar Passage T 
Rerouted T 

Rerouted 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer (Morning) Winter (Evening)
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jul 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Middle Finger Wall Rerouted (5.6) trad Crowders ...

Description 

Locate the small seam cliff left of 'The Balcony'. Great protection leads to a small alcove with a cresant shaped dihedral/crack. Follow the cresant crack up and cliff right while following the crack system.

After further inspection from the Backside Trail I found that there is a more dominant crack feature cliff left of the cresant dihedral/crack that slices Middle Finger Wall all the way to the top. From the cresant you climb cliff left instead of following the crack system up and cliff right.

Look up and locate a tree on a ledge. Once on this ledge the anchor for the balcony is cliff right on another ledge or you can climb past this tree to the bush up above to get to the tippy top of Middle Finger Wall.

Make sure to use runners, especially if you decide to traverse cliff right and up to The Balcony anchor. You can also break this wall up into two pitches but where is the fun in that?(kidding)

The first half of this route protects very well. It starts to get a bit chossy right before the tree ledge (I slung some chicken heads near their bases). Otherwise the climbing isn't too physically hard but the rock quality and exposure keep things a bit spicy!

Location 

Cliff left of 'The Balcony'

Locate a small seam leading to a cresant crack.

Protection 

Standard North Carolina Rack - Hexes, Tri-cams, Nuts, small-large cams


Comments on Rerouted Add Comment
Show which comments
By mstolorena
From: Shelby, NC
Feb 18, 2017

Good description. Good protection in beginning. End not so great, but easy climbing. Can definitely sling some chicken heads/odd features. Good climb though. Can also be easily top belayed at the 2 bolt anchors.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About