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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Requiem 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Russ Raffa, Russ Clune
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: akline on May 28, 2015

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Description 

The most common way to start this route is by climbing the first pitch of Baskerville Terrace, and then climb directly into the crack that splits the orange bulge 50' right of pitch two of Fat City Direct. This crack is burly in its own right. After the crack you traverse to the left a couple feet to a piton, which can be backed up, then move up into the bulging face and do a lock-off move on razor edges to better holds and the Fat City Bolted station.

I heard stories of a hold breaking on this route making it harder, but after talking to some people who climbed it previously, seems that the "hard 12" grade still stands.

There is also a last pitch that weaves up the overhangs, but i have not done it.

Location 

Just right of fat city direct, and above the first pitch of baskerville terrace.

Protection 

The piton that protects the crux can be backed up by small TCUs.


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By SethG
May 29, 2015

Check out some cool video of Requiem at the 2:29 mark.

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