|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|FA:||T. Swain and B White, Nov 1, 1980|
|Submitted By:||lee hansche on Jun 27, 2007|
|Comments on Repulsion||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Aug 10, 2009
|P3 is great fun. Very Gunks-like move over the overhang. I would suggest building the anchor on the ledge immediately after pulling the overhang in order to watch your second come up from below. The rest of the climb however, is a bit dirty.|
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 2, 2011
|Just climbed it today. But the rock was soaking wet from a thunderstorm which happened prior, so instead of going left after the bolt at the beginning dike, I went right and followed the blocky crack structure up right and around a bulge (which I think is the beginning of diagonal. Then I went straight up about 10 to 15 feet through a dirty corner (wet, slippery, and awkward / scary) up onto the ledge above. After belaying my second, we walked left to the base of the "Toe Crack" which was could be one of the best 5.7 crack I've ever climbed. Another thunderstorm rained us off at the top of the toe crack Epic.|
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
P3, I slung the anchor tree high and moved up the arete, clipped a piton, slung another tree at the level of the cave. The guidebook (Handren) calls this unprotected 5.7, I found it easy and safe (5.6 PG). Then left 15 feet along a ledge to the thin vertical crack, and up to the second overlap. There is no pin there, but it takes small cams. Some other route continues up and left, more polished and chalked, and I initially got off-route that way. Instead, step slightly down and move right 10 feet, looking for gear (orange or red Metolius I think). This works with doubles; with a single rope you might consider climbing more directly to this point (runout?). Climb up and step right to be above that cam, and you've reached the crux of the pitch. Move up on marginal feet to reach holds at the next overlap and more gear, then up and right to the big belay ledge. I'd call it 5.8+ or 5.9- and PG13.
P4, I clipped the bolt, moved up the right face of the arete, then stepped left onto the arete. Step left again onto the face without any hands (crux), then move up and left still without hands (still crux). 5.9+ and PG13 as that bolt gets further below you and around the corner. Once you reach the hands the climbing gets easier. I made this a long pitch, joining Standard, then up a mossy right-facing corner to belay at trees below the slab finish of Thin Air.
P5, Slab finish of Thin Air. Unprotected, probably 5.7 but feels easy after what you've been through.