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Upper South Corner Cliffs
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Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 
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Reproof T 
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SMASH! S 
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STaT T,TR 
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Tourist Trap T 

Reproof 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 291
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 19, 2013

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Description 

Cruxes occur near the start (a no-hands mantle) and midway; both are bolt-protected. This route has several sweet moves; it was discovered when we rappelled after climbing another route nearby. Too nice to pass up, we found fixed gear for the run-outs and added it.

Location 

This route lies on the Jammer Wall, left of the scramble-up notch leading to it. The ground at the base of this cliff has a "ramp" near the middle, rising left before the ledge levels off about 2m higher than the right side. Begin on the high side of this ramp.

Protection 

Standard rack. Be aware that the last move is one of Crane's typical frictiony-no-hands, gear-at-your-feet trials; and that last pc. is either a rattley #1 C4 or an overcammed #2...or a bomber cam between those two (I'm told Metolius Blue?). And one can always run off right into the dirty notch.


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By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Jan 22, 2015

RE: cam sizes...Wild country cams usually slot between BD cams. Ex. Purple Wild country is like a 2.5 camalot. Might be an option for this crux. Also, DMM dragon cams seem to be in between BD sizes.

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