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4. Moby Grape Area
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Reppys Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Phil Nelson and Allen Wedgewood in '65
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,818
Submitted By: brucelacroix on Aug 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Looking up on a warm October day .... climbers fee...

Description 

The perfect handcrack right of Moby Grape original start.

Location 

Right of the original start of Moby Grape.

Brian's directions: To get there walk south along the bike path for a few minutes until you see a giant boulder with a sign next to it. Just beyond that there is a point where the path shoulder gets wider and there will be a faint trail on the right (west) that is sometimes marked by a small cairn. Follow the trail up to the talus slope and boulder hop following cairns. You can see Reppy's from the talus field.

Protection 

Standard rack with double hand size pieces.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Reppy's
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Comments on Reppys Crack Add Comment
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By Ian Dibbs
Oct 20, 2016

To protect ... many #2's and #3's c4 cams ... # 4 is too big
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 21, 2016

Warning: this can be extremely painful on your feet. You may want to wear your approach shoes on it. Thick old style board lasted shoes would be perfect
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Nov 25, 2016

Ah ! THAT's why it seemed easier decades ago in "Robbins Boots"...and I just thought I was getting old.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 25, 2016

For such a popular landmark route, the description and directions could use filling out. Anyone for it? I haven't been on it in 5 or 6 years and don't have it ingrained in my mind except speed climbing the second half to stop the pain or I would myself. "Right of Moby Grape", which nobody does the original start of anymore, doesn't help so much. Beautiful route, you just need the right shoes.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 25, 2016

I think if finding Reppy's needs a better write-up then good luck finding anything else on Cannon
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 26, 2016

Sure John, but it is easy enough to put whether the approach trail brings you directly under it or to the left or right, if there is a fixed anchor at the top of the pitch for rapping etc. It is a route that visitors who have never been to Cannon before will likely be thinking of getting on. I'm not slagging the OP, but why not add a little more info if we can?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 26, 2016

Your right mark,, just screwing around. Some stuff about the approach and anchors might be good, until things change !

The climb description itself is perfect---climb the crack
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Nov 26, 2016

To get there walk south along the bike path for a few minutes until you see a giant boulder with a sign next to it. Just beyond that there is a point where the path shoulder gets wider and there will be a faint trail on the right (west) that is sometimes marked by a small cairn. Follow the trail up to the talus slope and boulder hop following cairns. You can see Reppy's from the talus field.
By Derek Michael
May 25, 2017

There's a solid, bolted anchor and chain at the top. Head right after the crack then back up left and you'll see it.

Agreed, this crack hurts the feet. A lot.

A C4 4 can protect the move outta the pod, but it's a risky fit. Plug a 3 slightly higher if you can.
By Russ Keane
Jun 4, 2017

"off-width feet"

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