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Repoman 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Michael Friedrichs and Sean Bradley, 1988
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Drew Thayer on Sep 30, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Repoman, the right-facing corner. Spectreman is on...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the right-facing corner just left of Spectreman. It is an attractive line, if you climb the grade you'll want to climb it. This gets a 5.11c grade in the Kelman book and an intimidating 5.12b PG-13 in the Orenczak book; quite a discrepancy. I figured I'd give it a go and find out for myself, the gear is a bit tricky, but it protects well and has a sustained crux that keeps you fully engaged for a few body-lengths. It is no gimme and has fun movement.

As to the grade discrepancy, .11c seems a little mean sitting right next to Spectreman, but there's no way this is .12b, or PG-13 rated. In all fairness, I'd reckon Spectreman is .11a and Repoman deserves a stout .11+.

Location 

Just left of Spectreman, it is the alluring, right-facing corner.

Protection 

C3s, Aliens, and Camalots to #1. There are two sets of anchors, it's obvious which one is more modern.


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By Moritz B.
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Bring 2 #1s. The gear higher up is a little tricky to place due to the flaring nature of the rock. Bottom line is you will climb on an "okay-so so" piece that is backed up by a solid piece, if that made any sense.

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