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WI5 M4-5

Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original: WI5 M4-5 [details]
FA: John Bragg, Rick Wilcox, 1973
Season: December through March
Page Views: 14,193
Submitted By: Gabe13 Flanders on Oct 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.


The route, the legend! Although Repentance has been outshined over the years in terms of pure difficulty, it remains an aesthetic and thrilling line with a satisfying combination of ice and rock. Navigating the finishing chockstone, with nearly four hundred feet of air under your feet, is unforgettable.

Right of the Cathedral Cave, you will spy a continuous flow of ice choking the rock chimney of the same name. Get there early or late, you don't want to climb beneath another party on this one.

P1: A 1 to 2-foot wide ice flow (often picked out) leads past a low pin to a ledge on the left with bolts. With a 70 m rope, it is possible and recommended to combine this pitch with p 2, as it makes the p 2 crux much safer.
P2: Step right and climb the column that spills from the pinched chimney. Can be much harder (and dicier screw placements to protect this crux)if the column is broken off. Careful stemming and a touch of brute strength will get you into the long, lovely chimney above. May be straight-ahead swings with great stemming on rock if fat, can be memorable chimney climbing reaching way in for sticks when thin. Good rock gear at intervals to supplement screws. Belay on the left once the chimney opens up into the spectacular rock corner, you will be tempted to stop at the first ledge but there is a higher station that is much nicer.
P3: Step back right and climb the beautiful WI4 ice flow. Roughly seventy feet of climbing will get you to the climb's second crux, the chockstone. It is possible to go left or right, most climbers go left but both options are good. Good cams and screws are available under the chockstone, then pick your line and go for it. The turf shots are only a few moves away... People always talk about the (gloved) hand jam, but you can climb this crux with or without tools. As with much of the route, good stemming is key. Hallelujah, you made it!


Ice screws, a light rack of cams including a 3-incher.

Photos of Repentance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sebastien Morin on the crux
Sebastien Morin on the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Sebastien Morin on the last pitch
Sebastien Morin on the last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry Knapp
Larry Knapp
Rock Climbing Photo: Repentence on January 29th, 2014.
Repentence on January 29th, 2014.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route...
The Route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat McCarthy coming up the first pitch.
Pat McCarthy coming up the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting P2 with plenty of ice in the crux crack a...
BETA PHOTO: Starting P2 with plenty of ice in the crux crack a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Following P2 of Repentance.
Following P2 of Repentance.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Biega
Brian Biega
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the crux. Pitch 2.
Just above the crux. Pitch 2.

Comments on Repentance Add Comment
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By Patrick McCarthy
From: Columbus Ohio
Dec 11, 2006
rating: WI5

The column at the beginning of the second pitch was non-existent when we did this route making for a couple of tough mixed (M5?) moves to gain good ice above. Kris protected this by clipping an old piton and backing it up with a marginal cam.
By JohnnyG
Jan 9, 2012

Some more basic beta: There are two fixed anchors with slings at the top of the second pitch, both on the left. The first is almost immediately after the last bit of the chimney. The next one is about 25 feet higher and has a nice ledge to stand on. Both keep you mostly out of ice fall danger.

We brought a single set of cams from 0 metolious to #3.5 camalot, plus some nuts. Blue cam works well under roof/chockstone at the top.

Wicked sweet climb!
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 5, 2014

So that others don't make the same mistake as us, the preferred second pitch belay is higher then you might suspect. The first fixed anchor looks like tat with a bunch of small ledges. Go another 20 feet or so and there will be a roughly 2'x4' ledge with another fixed anchor (4 pins tied off with thick orange static cord as of 1/14). Second ledge would be much more comfortable and more protected from falling ice.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jun 2, 2014

This route has a severe sting in it's tail. The last ten feet of the route may well feel like the crux. You'll see....

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