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M5-6 PG13

Type:  Mixed, 1 pitch, 150'
Original: M5-6 PG13 [details]
FA: Jan 29 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Jan - Feb
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jan 30, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: A bit too early in the season, we TR'd the route t...


The first 40' is an easy wallow to the Patio, sometimes deeply covered by snow. Above that, the game is on. A steep, narrow ice step leads to a bit easier going before coming to a bulge with a fist-crack on the left. Up you go, plugging #2 C4s and Tricams liberally (you did bring plenty of them, right?), to an awkward transition and somewhat run-out climbing to the final obstacle: an overhang at the top of the chimney. The small cams come in handy here. Wrestle your way to the top, grasp at straws, choss, and moss as you gain the final steps to safety.


Same as the Rock Route of the same name, the dirty corner system between Plumb Line and Critical Crimps. This is the right-facing corner system left of a slab apron at the low point of the Black Arches Wall. It turns into a chimney near the top and is capped by an overhang.


One each of .3, .4, .5 #3, two or three #2 C4s; a couple stubby ice screws, and a 2.5 and 3 Tricam. A sling or two may come in handy as well.
There is an anchor on an oak tree slightly right of the top-out. Must make two rappels to get down, or with a 70m rope, one if you go sharply climber's right, through the tree and brush festooned cliff near Hunt & Peck.

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By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Nov 28, 2014

as far as i know, this still hasn't seen a second ascent since jay put it up. this is a really high quality climb of the hidden gem status. one of those climbs that has you digging into your bag o tricks, really varied. i lack skills and my winter bag sucks so i top roped it.

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