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The Middle Boulder
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Renegade 
Wallace's Roof 

Renegade 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Matt Wallace 1/30/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 14
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Jan 30, 2011

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Description 

The crux is the first move. Using a side-pull crimp with your left and and a good hold with your right, pick some feet out left and toss up and right to a sharp slopey hold. Picking the correct feet for the start will keep it at the grade. Hit the slopey jug and work your feet to the right and make use of a good heel-hook. Then move up and left to a series of really cool jugs to another hard move up to the final jug and drop off.

There is a harder start starting all the way in the back but I couldnt make the first move and the start I did seems more like the natural line, so i just left it like this.

This couldn't be topped out due to ice and snow but once it is melted and I give it a good cleaning, it may get another start.

Location 

The route is the right most route on the middle boulder start off the obvious right hand hold and your pick of two small side-pull crimps with your left hand.

Protection 

Couple pads and spotter.


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