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Renaissance Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
Page Views: 3,322
Submitted By: Marcy on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Relaxing at the top of pitch 1

Access: MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1 (100'): 2 bolt face to a right facing dihedral. Follow dihedral up to a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up crack and belay from a nice ledge with a tree (2 bolts w/chains). Pitch 2 (~150'): Face climb to top. 4 bolts. Run-out between 1st and 2nd bolt and from 4th to top, but relatively easy climbing.

There are now two glue in bolts w/rappel rings at the top of the route. Double rope rappel (60m rope) back to the ledge. A second rap will put you back at the base of the route.


Starts behind some boulders left of Hanging Gardens, below the obvious right facing dihedral and roof (can be seen from approach trail).


First pitch - protects well above the face in the dihedral, roof, and crack above the roof (small to medium nuts or cams). Second pitch - one could protect the run-out above the 4th bolt with #4 cam, but the climbing eases significantly here.

Photos of Renaissance Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Skip after pulling the roof on P1.
Skip after pulling the roof on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: The dihedral and roof on pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: The dihedral and roof on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of the great dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the great dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: First two coffin nail bolts can be viewed ...
First two coffin nail bolts can be viewed ...

Comments on Renaissance Direct Add Comment
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By Ken Isaacson
Mar 30, 2010

This route had to have gone up a long time ago. I do not think it would get a 5.7 today. The face on the first pitch is pretty featureless. There isn't much for hands or feet. Like many routes at Pinnacle, you have to rely on sticky rubber and use hands to claw up on the granite crystals. The crystals at best make some very small edges that can be clawed to get you up. Gym climbers and sport climbers who are doing 1990's routes, beware. This is 70's vintage stuff.

I led pitch 1 yesterday, and when I got to the ledge I was spent. Bolt 1 on pitch 2 is run out and you cannot see bolt 2 from the ledge. And the new trail is about an hour longer hike than the old approach.
By Adam-phx-trad Saieed
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 30, 2011

This was my first lead in the McDowells and it was a great climb. I am pretty fresh to the climbing scene but i felt like for a 5.7 this climb really gave you a good bang for the buck. The face on the first pitch is pretty minimal in features but the grade of the rock lends itself to great smearing "trust those feet" and it'll go smoothly.
By Tradiban
Sep 21, 2012

Bolts are kinda old on the 2nd pitch but it's the most secure 5.7 slab climbing you will ever do. Two raps with a 70m gets to the ground. A #4 BD C4 will calm the nerves for the last 15ft of the runout but it definitely gets way easier there.
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 10, 2012

One of the best climbs in Phoenix!
By Wes P
From: Reno, NV
May 11, 2014

First pitch is great. The crack eats pro like a fat kid, and the roof is totally bomber (BD 3 to protect). 2nd pitch could use some pro clean-up because of the jankie bolts- rusted, allen wrench, button heads with good ole 1.5 millimeter thick hangers that predate the crustaceous. Worth rebolting IMHO.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 25, 2015

All protection bolts have been replaced. Anchors were in good condition and left alone.

Runouts are the same. Enjoy.

Thanks to ASCA, Ryan Myers, Mike Knarzer and Ted Smith for helping me get 'er done.

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