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The Headstone
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Alienist T 
Chickenhead T 
Clouds of Jupiter T 
Epitaph, The S 
Haus Flake S 
Head Games T,S 
Head Trip T 
Io S 
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 
Noble Savage T 
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 
Rampart Rage, The T,S 
Razor Burn S 
Remote Control S 
Rock Nazi S 
Scratchy Face S 
Slab Variation S 
Topaz S 
V-Slaught, The S 

Remote Control 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Sills and Tom Hanson, 1995
Page Views: 5,712
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Blaine following up the second pitch.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Remote Control was one of the first lines to go in on The Headstone, and its two pitches climb the longest continuous stretch of this rock. The first pitch provides access to the Private Idaho crag if desired; you can walk off to the right. The climbing begins in the middle of the main grey slab just before the system of tiered overhangs and The Vortex. For a slab, this is pretty well protected with a dozen bolts in 140 ft. The second pitch follows the right arete of the main upper wall, forming the skyline of the Headstone. Protection is a bit more scarce, but the climbing never gets harder than 5.10. Good edges, and small flakes and chips form the holds on the second pitch. Easily gets two stars for length and continuity, and the exposure on the second pitch.


QDs only. Two pitches long with double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. 1st pitch is 140 feet long. 2nd pitch is 100 feet long. It is possible to scramble over to The Rampart Rage in mid-line to reach the very top of The Headstone. Double ropes are mandatory for the rappels.

Photos of Remote Control Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the belay.
Looking down at the belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Stills, going down too it looks like.
Scott Stills, going down too it looks like.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sittin' on the first belay anchors.
Sittin' on the first belay anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Hansen.... is he Australian Rappelling?
Tom Hansen.... is he Australian Rappelling?

Comments on Remote Control Add Comment
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By Zachary Thomas
Sep 1, 2001

Great to take some one who wants to start leading slab. Great slab moves up high with close bolts to help the head.
By Joshua Lewis
May 6, 2002

Wow. Excellent line up an awesome rock...great views of Pike's, no crowds--or any other climbers at all. Very well worth the drive/hike in. May 4th and it actually snowed while on the 2nd pitch. FYI, the 2nd pitch only needs one 60m rope to get back to the ledge--then 2 to get down from there. Also, IMO the first pitch is significantly harder than the 2nd, but very well protected. I guess it depends if you're better at friction slab or steep, edgy face.

Damn; what a good route. Serious appreciation to those who put it up as well as those who documented it here. I definately would never have done it if it weren't for this d-base.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 1, 2006

The anchor on the midway ledge was fixed on 8/30/06. Previously, it had standard flat hangers with one quick link. That set up will DESTROY your rope. There are 2 quick links on each hanger, LEAVE THEM THERE.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Thanks to Tzilla for fixing up that rap anchor. This is a not-to-be missed climb. A great warm up for hardmen, rapping the last anchors will deposit you directly at the "fun" stuff. This climb has an eye-opening start (10a), followed by some terrific 5.9 slab climbing, a roof (10a), and an awkward dihedral that you could off-width for 20 feet, so you desire. (a bit of everything?) P2 has stellar position, with a cryptic crux including an exposed leftward step into space. I think P2 is a bit harder than P1, bringing the climb up to 10b if you do both pitches.
By slim
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Upper pitch is pretty cool. Good positioning.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 30, 2011

Great route. Bolts are a bit sparse on the slab, but the 10a rating is appropriate. You could actually link up both pitches with a 70m rope, but the ledge at the top of the first pitch is the most comfortable spot from which to belay. (The end of the first pitch is at the second set of anchors; the first set is for rappelling.) The upper pitch has a couple of somewhat runout spots, and a couple of bolts that are properly positioned for a 6'7" climber. From the top of the first pitch you can rappel down into Private Idaho.
By LuisC
From: Boulder
Jul 8, 2013

Awesome route! Thanks!

FYI, we rappeled with a 60m rope without any problems. First from the top anchors in P2 to the intermediate anchors on the slab before the roof (not the end of P1), and then from there to the ground.

Thought the second pitch was a 10b.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Great route! Strangely I think P2 is more difficult than P1 and would happily give P2 5.10b, simply because of the first few bolts. Glad I led P1 and let my partner do P2.

Spectacular views - another good reason to do it!

Not sure how people got down on a 60m, we came down off the intermediate anchor and only had ~10' of extra rope. I'd bring a 70 if I were you.
By Tradgic Yogurt
Aug 14, 2016

If, in a moment of genius, you forgot your shoes at the car, do not despair -- you are not consigned to a fate of belay bitching all day, hiking boots suffice to TR the first pitch.

The route finding turned out to be quite fun. When you're not on jugs and small ledges, there are good scoops and surprisingly big crystals. Pulling the roof below the last bolt was the only place I had to substitute upper body strength for feet, and there was a lovely pinch/undercling combo to reach that from the Head Games dihedral.

An 80m rope gets you from P1 anchors to the ground with a few meters of rope to spare as long as you go climber's left to return to the ledge below the first bolt instead of going straight down. The rope pulled clean despite looking potentially worrisome when cleaning.
By kpbo
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Really fun route. I found P2 difficult if you climb the face left of the bolt line. I found climbing right of the bolt line on the arete to be significantly easier.

Also, I concur with Hiro's comment above - we had a single 60m rope, and there was no way it would reach from the top of P2 anchors to the intermediate (just below the roof) anchors. So descending for us required 3 rappels: top P2 -> top P1, top P1 -> intermediate anchors, intermediate -> ground.

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