Remo's No Crack Climb
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The name refers to Remo's ability to climb this flawlessly and then absolutely FAIL trying to climb the next door "Never Again" with the same rating.
Three variations exist, with the right face topping out as 5.10b. These routes are listed in Sven's guide as #5 and #6.
Variation 1: Start on the right side of the nose and 1/3 of the way traverse left and finish on the crack above.
Variation 2: Same start but avoid the crack on the left at the top, 5.10a.
Variation 3: Same start but go straight up right of the nose, 5.10b.
Right of "Never Again" is a corner with a smooth face above.
From: Madison, WI
Apr 22, 2011
For the record I did not "FAIL". It took me a few brutal tries, but I sent. Variation 2 is a fun little climb.