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Release the Kraken 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 11, 2014

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First ascent of Release the Kraken.

Description 

This is simply an amazing route. Great rock and interesting climbing throughout. Not a move harder than 5.11b, but it really feels like 5.12 because of the pump. The location can't be beat.

Make an easy boulder move to gain the crack, then follow this through a thin section (crux) to easier climbing past a natural thread. Continue up to where the crack angles back left. At this point there are two options. The original ascent followed this left-leaning crack up, then switched to a smaller crack to the left, then finally switched to yet another crack on the left to topout. Alternatively, you can traverse left (similar to It's Only Entertainment, but with better pro) to the base of the third crack and follow this to the top.

The top cracks were once quite clean, but are now (Sep 2014) a little dirty, but not so much that it hinders the climbing.

There's a fixed anchor on a tree where one can lower with a 60m rope. Watch that the rope doesn't get buried in the cracks on the lower (might be wise to belay from the top because of this).

Location 

On the main wall, where the wall is the tallest and most sheer. This is the obvious right-leaning crack through orange rock.

Protection 

Double rack to 3", triples in sizes to 1.5".


Photos of Release the Kraken Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Release the Kraken", one of the most aw...
"Release the Kraken", one of the most aw...

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By WiseOldMoon
From: West Hartford, Connecticut
Oct 18, 2014

Needs to be climbed more! Foot chips were falling off all over this thing. Luckily the crack is very featured and there are tons of options for feet (due to the character of the rock). With some more traffic this could be a classic. Bring a wire brush...
By Kevin Johnson
Oct 20, 2014

This is a great line. With more traffic it should clean up nicely. The route climbs an overhanging crack with plenty of face and footholds to keep the grade within the mid 5.11 range. At 2/3rds height there are many options. If you take the left traverse to the left most crack, be delicate with your feet (lots of friable flakes)and bring a brush to clean up the last 20feet to the top (the crack is really dirty).
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower section of Release the Kraken
Lower section of Release the Kraken

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