||Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, 950', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0 [details]|
|FA: ||Andrew M. and Nathan Brown|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Any - No wet streaks, shade until noon in summer|
|Page Views: ||968|
|Submitted By: ||andjoely on Oct 22, 2011|
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This is a cool route with just a short section of aid that follows an obvious series of cracks and then grooves left of Defective Sonar. It has no water streaks so it will dry very quickly after rain and thus it is a good wet winter route. Also, like defective sonar it is also a good summer route due to the shade until noon and what is usually a nice breeze up high on the wall. All moves 11c or harder can be aided by standing in slings or french freeing.
P1: Climb slab to cams to #1 camalot then continue up over roof past 5 bolts to anchor
P2: Continue up slab past 3 bolts and 2 spots with nuts, tricams, and small cams to 2nd pitch anchor of defective sonar
p3: climb defective sonar crack for 20 feet, step left to climb short corner, and climb powerful face moves past a bolt (strenuous clip) to lower angle terrain and another bolt. Continue up to crack (need #5 camalot at start) and traverse awesome and awkward crack to its end at a 2 bolt anchor.
p4: high step past reachy 5 or 6 bolt bolt ladder. This part has not been freed but looks like it would go at 12+ or 13-. Then climb slab to another awesome crack feature. Climb this to 2 bolt anchor with some 12a crack grooving at the end.
p5: climb slab past bolts and gear to a really fun mantle move protected by a #3 camalot. Continue to anchor
p6: climb out right to gear then past a couple bolts then a long 5.8 runout to key medium cams in a horizontal (around #1 camalot size?). Then step left and climb groove to belay at some amazing crystals and potholes in the rock
p7: continue up groove past a couple bolts and gear to the top
Descent: Rappel the route. You can also rappel from the top of P4 to the top of P3 of defective sonar, then rappel to the top of P1 of defective sonar.
P1 starts about 200 feet left of the fathom corner
Double cams to #2 for the crack pitches, singles of #3 and #5 camalot. Nuts, perhaps a couple smaller tricams
BETA PHOTO: Topo. I also included a topo of Defective Sonar fo...