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Reincarnation 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: BrianWS on Nov 14, 2013

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Contemplating the opening move.

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scramble up easy rock to the roof about 20 feet up. Surmount the roof with good steep technique, a long reach, or a big ol' throw to a large slot. Establish yourself on the slab using pockets and small face holds, continue up another 10-15 feet to a double bolt anchor.
Even better, continue up the bolt line to the left for a few more bolts worth of easy 5.10 climbing.

Location 

The first line of bolts to the left of Oh No and Bull King Dihedral. Look for the obvious slot just above the low roof.

Protection 

316 steel (2006). Double bolt anchors at about 40 feet and 70 feet.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a very bouldery route with a very specific sequence. Unfortunately the technical climbing doesn't last long. The climbing above the slab is easy (9ish) but quite fun, although it could easily go on gear as a variation to Bull King Dihedral. Two stars to the slab anchors, three to the top.

On my redpoint, I skipped the second bolt. I found this to make the move much easier and not at all increase the danger of the fall.

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