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Reimer's Ranch

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From MP's sister site:

Reimer's Ranch Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 30.3337, -98.1222 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 154,359
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Jun 28, 2006
Forecast:
This Afternoon

93° | 74°
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91° | 71°
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Lance on Liposuction

Description 

Located approximately 30 miles southwest of Austin, Reimer's Ranch provides an excellent selection of pocketed limestone sport climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. The majority of the walls overlook the Pedernales river a short distance away which provides an excellent post-climb cool down in the summer.

In the past, climbers would usually be greeted by Milton Reimer or his wife, Joy, at the gate. For two dollars a person, one gained access to excellent climbing in a beautiful locale. The entry ticket contained the rules ("No naked parties, no beer drinkin", etc.).

Travis County recently purchased the property and began official operation on December 1, 2005. Starting in January of 2006, the park was open to the public 7 days a week (it was previously open only Thursday through Sunday) from sunrise to sunset. The current entry fee is $8.00 per car (so pack 'em in). Check out Travis County's website for Reimer's Ranch Park for more information on hours and fees.

EDIT (02/2013):The County has done a really nice job renovating the facilities at the park. There are now flush toilets and covered picnic areas at the climbers trailhead as well as more extensive restroom facilities at the mountain bike trailhead across the main road, including outdoor showers? The entry fee has been raised to $10 a car, so carpool.

Getting There 

From Austin, take Highway 71 west. Turn left at FM 3238 (also known as Hamilton Pool Road). The entrance to the ranch will be approximately 12 miles down this road on the right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.4 miles from here

248 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',99],['2 Stars',121],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',6],['5.8',15],['5.9',23],['5.10',65],['5.11',60],['5.12',48],['5.13',21],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Reimer's Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Reimer's Ranch:
Eight Flake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
God Bless the IRS    5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Serpent Wall
Madrone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Dead Cats
My Name is Mud   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Dead Cats
Back Flip   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Dead Cats
El Primero   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Serpent Wall
Hello Kitty   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Dead Cats
Deviance (aka 5.10 roof)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunshine Roof
Reimerama   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Dead Cats
Dead Cats   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Dead Cats
Water Ballet   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Dead Cats
Prototype   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
T-Roofic Detour   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   T-Roofic Wall
Bolt Talk   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 25'   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Spider Grind   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sex Cave
Crankenstien   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   Crankenstein
Yertle the Turtle   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Liposuction   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sex Cave
Rain Dance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, Chipped, 40'   House of Pain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Reimer's Ranch

Featured Route For Reimer's Ranch
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaking out on one of the many good rests on Proto...

Prototype 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Texas : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
One of the best 5.10 climbs at Reimer's. Prototype is the right most of two lines that share the first bolt (the other is Mas Cerveza, 5.11) just to the right of the shallow dihedral at the base of Clone Call. The start overhangs a little - pull up onto a bulge using a good flake. Be sure to clip the first bolt before making any moves up the bulge or you could deck if you slipped. Look for a good two finger pocket with the right hand while you pinch with the left. Pull through the bulge to ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

Comments on Reimer's Ranch Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 23, 2017
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 15, 2006
You can download a number of .pdf topos for the climbing areas at Reimer's Ranch from the Texas Climbers web site (texasclimbers.com):

Reimer's Ranch Topos
By Jfoley
Oct 22, 2011
What is the climbing like here in Dec-Jan? Sunny cliffs?,windy?,temps?

Thanks!
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 26, 2011
Jay, I believe that Prototype, House of Pain, Crankenstien etc. face either west or slightly NW and catch afternoon sun. Dead Cats, T-roofic, Tit for Tom face more West or SW and catch sun earlier. Sex Canyon and Cave face south though their steep nature provides shade in the summer, the Canyon probably gets sun in winter while the Cave probably does not. There are also a few routes across the canyon that face north and would not catch sun.

As far as temperatures go it has never been TOO cold for me to climb there and we visit often for Thanksgiving and Christmas. That said it can be cold and the humidity compared to NM will make it seem a bit colder. That said you could need down jackets to belay or it could be 70 degrees.

Wind has never been a problem when I've been there.
By Sam A.
From: San Antonio, TX
Aug 12, 2013
Is there a best time of day to climb during the summer at Reimer's? A few friends want to go this weekend, but we're just wondering if there are some shadow chasing opportunities here. Thanks.
By Zcallaway
Aug 22, 2013
Sam, The best part of the day in August is morning and evening. The beauty of Reimers Ranch is that in the hottest part of the day you can take advantage of the river running in the area and cool off.
If you are going more in the mid day, I would suggest the North Shore area of Reimers, as it is in the shade the whole day. Plus they keep adding new routes there that haven't been polished by the high traffic.
By Daniel Rickert
From: Dallas, TX
Jun 4, 2014
FYI the current entry fee is $10 and they only take cash. There is an ATM in a gas station/convenience mart a mile from the entrance
By wtheap Heap
Aug 25, 2014
Is 30m enough rope for Reimer's or should I just bring my 60?
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 15, 2014
30 m should be sufficient for most routes, but that only gets you 50'. Is packing 60 m too much? The hike in is not huge...
By Robert Michael
Apr 21, 2017
Starting May 2016, there is a $5 surcharge on Friday-Sunday May-October. The surcharge applies to pass holders as well.
By jjjjjjjjjj
May 15, 2017
To clarify the above comment, the day use fee for Reimers Ranch in the summer (May 1st through September 30th) has been increased on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from $10 to $15. Even if you have a yearly Travis County Parks pass, you must still pay the extra $5 to enter the park.
By Jesse Bruni
From: Austin
May 16, 2017
Actually, they just rescinded the rule for annual pass holders and vehicles with an occupant 62 years of age or older. So if you have an annual pass you will not be charged, and if you have an occupant in your vehicle 62 years old or older you will only be charged the typical $10 fee.
By Phillip Clark
Aug 22, 2017
Anyone know what happened to the "Rock Dog" Campground outside the park? Have any alternatives popped up? It was really convenient.
By Jake Westfall
From: Austin, TX
Aug 23, 2017
I think I remember hearing that they chose to close down following some vandalism from campers (?).

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