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Reimer's Ranch

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From MP's sister site:

Reimer's Ranch Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 30.3337, -98.1222 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 125,637
Administrators: Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Hank Caylor, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Jun 28, 2006
Forecast:
This Afternoon

85° | 66°
Tuesday

83° | 64°
Wednesday

82° | 57°
Thursday

80° | 55°
Friday

84° | 62°
Saturday

80° | 61°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Shaking out on one of the many good rests on Proto...

Description 

Located approximately 30 miles southwest of Austin, Reimer's Ranch provides an excellent selection of pocketed limestone sport climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. The majority of the walls overlook the Pedernales river a short distance away which provides an excellent post-climb cool down in the summer.

In the past, climbers would usually be greeted by Milton Reimer or his wife, Joy, at the gate. For two dollars a person, one gained access to excellent climbing in a beautiful locale. The entry ticket contained the rules ("No naked parties, no beer drinkin", etc.).

Travis County recently purchased the property and began official operation on December 1, 2005. Starting in January of 2006, the park was open to the public 7 days a week (it was previously open only Thursday through Sunday) from sunrise to sunset. The current entry fee is $8.00 per car (so pack 'em in). Check out Travis County's website for Reimer's Ranch Park for more information on hours and fees.

EDIT (02/2013):The County has done a really nice job renovating the facilities at the park. There are now flush toilets and covered picnic areas at the climbers trailhead as well as more extensive restroom facilities at the mountain bike trailhead across the main road, including outdoor showers? The entry fee has been raised to $10 a car, so carpool.

Getting There 

From Austin, take Highway 71 west. Turn left at FM 3238 (also known as Hamilton Pool Road). The entrance to the ranch will be approximately 12 miles down this road on the right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.4 miles from here

242 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',95],['2 Stars',120],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',6],['5.8',15],['5.9',23],['5.10',64],['5.11',61],['5.12',46],['5.13',19],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Reimer's Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Reimer's Ranch:
Eight Flake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Jugfest   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Landfill Wall
My Name is Mud   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Dead Cats
Deviance (aka 5.10 roof)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunshine Roof
Prototype   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Millennium Traverse   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Millennium Wall
T-Roofic Detour   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   T-Roofic Wall
Spider Grind   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sex Cave
Crankenstien   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   Crankenstein
Let Them Eat Flake   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Sex Canyon
Liposuction   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sex Cave
Yertle the Turtle   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Jade   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   House of Pain
Rain Dance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, Chipped, 40'   House of Pain
Body Wax   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Sex Cave
Learning to Crawl   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 40'   Sex Canyon
Elephant Man   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 50'   Sex Cave
Block Party   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 50'   Insect Wall (including Bloc...
Super Cruiser   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 35'   Sex Canyon
Dreamkeeper   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 50'   Insect Wall (including Bloc...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Reimer's Ranch

Featured Route For Reimer's Ranch
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett belaying for me on eight flake during the on...

Eight Flake 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Texas : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
One of the most popular climbs at Reimer's Ranch. Look for a prominent, right-facing flake that goes straight up the left side of Prototype Wall, with a smaller flake above it the slants to the right. Climb past three bolts to the top of the flake (about two thirds the height of the wall), and then transition to the smaller flake above. The crux is moving between the two flakes on some thin holds. Finish at the anchors directly above Bisector. Expect to wait in line for this one....[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

Comments on Reimer's Ranch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 15, 2006
You can download a number of .pdf topos for the climbing areas at Reimer's Ranch from the Texas Climbers web site (texasclimbers.com):

Reimer's Ranch Topos
By Jfoley
Oct 22, 2011
What is the climbing like here in Dec-Jan? Sunny cliffs?,windy?,temps?

Thanks!
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 26, 2011
Jay, I believe that Prototype, House of Pain, Crankenstien etc. face either west or slightly NW and catch afternoon sun. Dead Cats, T-roofic, Tit for Tom face more West or SW and catch sun earlier. Sex Canyon and Cave face south though their steep nature provides shade in the summer, the Canyon probably gets sun in winter while the Cave probably does not. There are also a few routes across the canyon that face north and would not catch sun.

As far as temperatures go it has never been TOO cold for me to climb there and we visit often for Thanksgiving and Christmas. That said it can be cold and the humidity compared to NM will make it seem a bit colder. That said you could need down jackets to belay or it could be 70 degrees.

Wind has never been a problem when I've been there.
By Sam A.
From: San Antonio, TX
Aug 12, 2013
Is there a best time of day to climb during the summer at Reimer's? A few friends want to go this weekend, but we're just wondering if there are some shadow chasing opportunities here. Thanks.
By Zcallaway
Aug 22, 2013
Sam, The best part of the day in August is morning and evening. The beauty of Reimers Ranch is that in the hottest part of the day you can take advantage of the river running in the area and cool off.
If you are going more in the mid day, I would suggest the North Shore area of Reimers, as it is in the shade the whole day. Plus they keep adding new routes there that haven't been polished by the high traffic.
By Daniel Rickert
From: Dallas, TX
Jun 4, 2014
FYI the current entry fee is $10 and they only take cash. There is an ATM in a gas station/convenience mart a mile from the entrance
By wtheap
Aug 25, 2014
Is 30m enough rope for Reimer's or should I just bring my 60?
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 15, 2014
30 m should be sufficient for most routes, but that only gets you 50'. Is packing 60 m too much? The hike in is not huge...

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