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North Side
Routes Sorted
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Bombelay T 
Brain Dead T 
Captain Kangaroo T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Creatures of Waste T 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
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Glass Eye T 
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 
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Invisible Airwaves Direct T 
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Off the Wall T 
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Reign of Fire T 
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 
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Safari Jive Double Direct  T 
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Seal, The T 
Shrimp Cocktail T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Reign of Fire 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13 [details]
FA: Adam Taylor
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Casserly on Apr 1, 2016

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Description 

Pumpy and kinda awkward gear protected climbing right off the belay moving right through overlaps. The first of 3 bolts is very hard to hang on RP as it was bolted for aids. A few deep tugs bring you to a good horizontal rest before a fierce and crimpy crux though the flaring crack. More pumpy gear protected climbing with good whip potential brings you to the anchors of the open book.

Location 

This route climbs directly off the anchors from the top of the Glass Menagerie 1st pitch. It's listed in the guide as an aids variation to the Open Book and also skips the chossy P2 traverse. Climbs up and right through overlaps and flared bolt protected crack and meets up with the anchors of the Open Book pitch. Recently discovered you can rap to the ground with a single 80M from the anchors.

Protection 

cams from red c3 - #2 camalot
3 bolts
bolted anchors with rap rings


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By Casserly
Apr 1, 2016

This pitch has been linked into a full redpoint of the Glass Menagerie bumping the grade up a bit. Go do it!