Camilla rapping from atop the First Wall
Taipei area's best crag... if you have your own transportation!
If you live north or west of Taipei main station, it's super-close. From city center, it's a third as far as Long Dong by scooter. If have a car (thus can take the highway), it's half as far from city center. If you take public transportation, and thus have to walk to the trail entrance, it depends on where you're coming from.
A small cliff of pumicy andesite set above the Xinbeitou area of Taipei City. In contrast to Big Cannon Cliff, it does have bolts for leading, and is outside the national park. It has a more strenuous approach (5 minutes from trailhead), but for those who wish to lead climb outdoors in the Taipei area, this is the only option. It is primarily a sport climbing area, with one section that can be setup for top-roping.
In spite of its convenient location in the heart of a major metropolitan city, the cliff does not see many climbers. Though it can be quickly covered in vegetation and debris if not maintained, it is now (as of May 2016) mostly clean. Though short and dirty, there are quite a few gems amongst the rough. The rock is typically slabby with horizontals and crimpy features. There are even a few short vertical systems. Top anchors are now all rigged with links for lower and rappelling.
The First Wall is densely packed with crimpy, slabby climbs broken up by ledges. The Overhang Wall can be setup for top-rope via obvious trail on the left side, and is mostly easy, with a single challenging sequence of moves. The Gully Route is a gem of a boulder problem. Bert and Ernie Rock have a few flurries of moves, but are mostly walk-ups. The White-streak Wall is more of the same, but smaller. Finally, the Last Wall has a concentration of "tough start to cruising" climbs with some variation.
If you walk up from Xinbeitou to the cliffs and continue past them to another rocky outcropping, you can climb to the top of the ridge. This is a great vantage point. From here, you can join the hiking trails that go through the hills to the Shipai area.
From Xinbeitou MRT, walk to the corner of Guangming Rd and Zhongshan Road. There is a 7-11 here. Continue up Zhongshan Road, keeping right at the public hot spring, to a sort-of round-about. Turn left onto Wenquan Rd and follow this, staying right at a fork, and then just keep the hills above on your right as the road ascends into the forest. At a sharp switchback, locate a fisheye mirror near a set of stone steps which will lead you up towards the cliff.
The trail starts to the right of the fisheye mirror on the switch back road. Hike up a cobbled stone trail for 2 minutes to a boulder in the trail. Turn right up a smaller, rutted, steep trail. Follow this trail for five minutes and you will arrive at First Wall.
Total approach time is 30-40 minutes.
Climbing Season For the Taiwan area.
Weather station 4.8 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',0]
Taiwanese climbers on the first two routes of the ...
Overhang wall, right side
From a nearby hilltop looking north, burial chambe...
Another wall off in the jungle
Ernie Rock, just past the Gully Route
Looking back at the turnout
BETA PHOTO: Map of Rehai 1
By Jim Althans
Sep 14, 2015
Directions from the road to the crag: the trail starts to the right of the fisheye mirror on the switch back road (as described above). Hike up a cobbled stone trail for 2 minutes and then turn right up a smaller, steep trail. Follow this up for 5 minutes until you reach a fork and turn right. Follow this trial for another 5 minutes and you will arrive at First Wall.
There are multiple areas at Rehai, each about 1 minute walk from the last, along the same trail. The top of Overhang Wall can be reached by a trail to the left of Overhang Wall 1.