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Elephant Rock
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Mousetrap TR 
Regular Route T 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Linnea Williams on May 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

3rd class to a gully leads you to the base of the route: an easy maybe 5.4 chimney. Exit left to some face/crack climbing that tops out on an exposed ridge. Traverse left to another section of face/OW crack climbing. Top out to the left. The hardest move is transitioning into the final section of crack without pulling too hard on the every questionable Pinnacle's rock. Bolts and chains at the top.

Location 

Use David Rubine for more info about finding the route.

Protection 

Two bolts (one before the traverse and one before the final moves). We placed a BD .75 in the thinner first crack and BD 1 right before the second crack.


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By Floyd Hayes
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The approach is easy: just follow the signs! There's an alternate start that transforms Elephant Rock into a two-pitch climb. Continue uphill on the trail past the standard class 3 approach until it turns left toward two large pines. Between the pines there is a bolt on the 15' wall to the left, which protects a short and rotten 5.8 face climb with a double-bolt anchor and single rappel ring at the top. Clip the anchor and waltz across the class 3 ridge to the start of the Regular Route on Elephant Rock. You can wrap a double runner around a very big knob for a belay anchor. The follower can drag a second rope and quickly set up a rappel above the 5.8 face, which will save you time later.

I thought the crux (psychologically if not physically) of the Regular Route was the first few unprotected moves up the rotten chimney. There are two poorly placed bolts. The first is at the top of the ridge, just before you traverse left, far right of where it should be (I missed it the first time), so use a double runner on it (or just skip it). The second is after the traverse at the base of the final headwall, but it's much lower than it should be. Leave behind your big cams, they won't do you any good.

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