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Regular Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Bill Rose and John Rotten
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,019
Submitted By: Milton Mugambe on Jun 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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P2 of the Steeple's regular route. As with most a...


This classic route follows the most prominent corner system on the west side of The Steeple. The first pitch although less than memorable, redeems itself before the anchor below the fantastic second pitch. Savor the incredible second pitch's thin hand jams The final squeeze chimney pitch deposits one on an exposed summit stand on top and bust the "Christ Redeemer Move"


This route leaves the large ledge located up and left from the final approach gully. Pitch 1. Climb an easy series of steps leading to a boulder "split" by a handcrack. Climb past the boulder and through a couple of small trees. Go up and left through some low bushes, then climb up and right along a ramp system. Exit left, and climb a verticle, west-facing, hand crack to a sloping ledge. Go up and right to a nice ledge and two-bolt anchor.
Pitch2. Climb the beautiful corner above at the top of the corner section go left(east) along a wide hand crack to a point where you can look up and over to the east side. Follow the north-facing double cracks above 1" to a easy open book and ledge(be sure to protect the follower). Go right along a ledge to a two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3. Drop your gear and grind up the squezze chimney, solo the easy, but incredibally exposed northwest arete of the final summit. Clip the anchors on top and lower to the ledge and two-bolt anchor. Two single rope rappels get you to the base ledge.


Wires and cams to 3" (2)each 3/4" to 2" One 70 meter rope.

Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson busting the "Christ Redeemer" pose...
Tyson busting the "Christ Redeemer" pose...
Rock Climbing Photo:  The West Face of the Steeple
The West Face of the Steeple
Rock Climbing Photo:  The fantastic second pitch of the classic Regular...
The fantastic second pitch of the classic Regular...

Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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By Milton Mugambe
Jun 24, 2010

One of the best areas in a beautiful canyon.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 4, 2013

There's only one pitch of really good climbing on this one, but the high grade byproduct of climbing this route is a stellar hangout way up in a Woodfords gully overlooking The Fortress area across the canyon. I'd have to disagree with the rampant stars (three out of five seems about right), but the allure of the obscure does tend to lead to overhype in the estimation of some.

For a fun diversion at the top of the second pitch, head right and over the lip instead of scrambling up the trivial left-trending ramp/hand crack to finish. From here anchor in at an angled ledge boasting some metolius hangers underneath a roof and set off on a 5.11d/5.12a fingers to ridiculous roof crack called Mad Hatter that finishes at the same anchors as the Regular Route's second pitch. At least, around 5.12- is what I thought it was rated. Dan Kennedy (FAist) apparently thinks 5.11c. More accurately, it was 5.11- A0 for me ;).
By Laine Christman
From: Reno, NV
May 27, 2014

I thought the final chimney pitch was also good. A gut-sucking grovel up the squeeze to an exciting step across slab finish. Not to be missed. A 0.4 pros the entry moves and a slung horn pros the step across. Once you've gained the 2nd pitch there are many options for additional climbing.

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