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Regular Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Whitmar & Holden
Season: dry
Page Views: 1,833
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Finale of the Regular Route.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Classic Pinnacles climbing.

Locate the start, which is the most moderate looking face climbing protected by two lead bolts. The route takes a sharp right, pass another bolt, and turn the steep corner into a belay stance. Fun pitch, with great position.

Ramble up the short and easier second pitch, clipping a couple bolts, enroute to the summit plateau. Anchor is located on the NE corner of the summit boulder.


Located near the right end of the east face of the Monolith. Walk over to the summit boulder and rappel back to the base from the anchor on the SE side of the boulder (rap lines kinda goes down the direct route). Single 60m rope.


Three lead bolts on the first pitch to a bolted anchor. Pass two bolts on the second pitch to the summit, which has a bolted anchor.

I seem to recall placing a cam or two so maybe a few nuts and cams makes sense for supplemental pro for this route. Otherwise, its fairly head's up climbing with well spaced protected.

Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past turning the corner and heading to the p1...
BETA PHOTO: Just past turning the corner and heading to the p1...

Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Nov 26, 2010

Brought gear (cams), but didn't use it. Draws / slings probably sufficient for most folks.
By Christine Page
From: San Francisco
Apr 16, 2011

At the top, climb the boulder and find a surprise at the top of it.
By Ryan Nevius
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The starting moves to the first bolt are really good (5.8). The rest of the climb isn't anything special. I brought supplemental pro, but didn't place anything.
By bmdhacks
Feb 23, 2015

This is the safest way to ascend the top, and provides access to toprope all the anchors to the left of this climb. I felt the most danger was before the first bolt on the first pitch, and the remaining runouts were super easy climbing / ledge traverses.

I brought gear but found no placements.

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