||Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
|Original: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||First ascent, 1950: first pitch led by Dick Pownall, second by Bob Merriam. Mike Brewer and Leigh Ortenburger also participated. Some pro on both pitc|
|Page Views: ||1,333|
|Submitted By: ||Andrew Carson on Mar 26, 2009 with updates
from Steven Jervis|
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Looking up the southeast face from the top of the ...
See earlier notes.
The wide crack on the southeast side of the tower is unmistakable. Climb it, traverse right to the north side, and continue up the left edge of the north face.
Stoppers and smallish cams or tcu's for the second pitch. The initial wide crack has no pro unless you carry a big cam or hex, in the #5 or greater range (for a cam.)
BETA PHOTO: Anchors at the top of the first pitch. We rapped ...
Red Sentinel from the southwest.
By Harrison Dreves
From: Denver, Colorado
Nov 5, 2010
The first pitch of this was certainly an eye opener. I think you could protect with a #3 cam in one or two spots, but you'd really want a #4 or #5. The crack is much more fist to shoulder sized than hand crack sized (as our guidebook described it). It certainly intimidated me as a rather new trad leader with gear up to a #2 cam.