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Regular Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wally Reed, Chuck Pratt
Season: Summer, Fall
Page Views: 55,007
Submitted By: kBobby Hanson on Aug 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (537)
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Me with Fred Beckey at the base parking lot! Wow!

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


P1: Lieback to fingers to a small belay stance (or continue up to large ledge with pine tree). (5.9)

P2: Hands to a wide pod to a ledge. (5.8)

P3: Sustained fingers (5.7) through a couple of small roofs to a ledge. (5.8)

P4: Incipient cracks up to and over scary flake. Traverse up and right past two pins to huge "Crescent Ledge." (5.8)

P5: Follow right-facing dihedral on left side of ledge up, increasing in difficulty (5.6), or traverse left to the 5.5 R flakes. (5.6)

P6: Another dihedral up and left. Where it really steepens, step right onto the face past knobs and small placements. Either lieback on the right-hand side of the roof (5.7), or pull straight through at a pin (5.9).

P7: Follow ledges up and right, staying toward easier ground. (5.7 start, then 5.4)

About four more pitches of easy ground. Simul what you can. (mostly 5.0, occasional 5.4 to 5.6)


Park in a large parking area on the south side of the road. Follow obvious and signed trails to the slabs at the base of the dome. Take 3rd class slabs to the start of the route.

Descent: walk off the back side, and most of the way back to the start of the climb to regain climber trails back to the road.


Standard Rack up to #3 Camalot. Plus double nuts for the 400 feet or so of simul-climbing.

Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Regular Route". Photo by Blitzo.
"Regular Route". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Errett Allen free soloing "Regular Route"...
Errett Allen free soloing "Regular Route"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cheers.....Marc Hirt & Tim Hudgel on the summit of...
Cheers.....Marc Hirt & Tim Hudgel on the summit of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hollow flake variation on Cresent Arch pitch. The ...
Hollow flake variation on Cresent Arch pitch. The ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt leading up pitch 3
Matt leading up pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: ...and very close to the summit.
...and very close to the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tamara crusing up p1...The routes crux is located ...
Tamara crusing up p1...The routes crux is located ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route tracing:  NA 50 CLASSIC!
BETA PHOTO: Route tracing: NA 50 CLASSIC!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Tennessee on P5 above Crescent Ledge.
Tony Tennessee on P5 above Crescent Ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: After the traverse
After the traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Fairview detail. "regular route" area. P...
Fairview detail. "regular route" area. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Regular Route fromt the base of the route
BETA PHOTO: Regular Route fromt the base of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: regular route
regular route
Rock Climbing Photo: Perhaps the best pitch of the climb
Perhaps the best pitch of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: leading up to the small roof above crescent ledge
leading up to the small roof above crescent ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the stellar crack of pitch 2.
Leading the stellar crack of pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to the tree a top of the 10th pitch acc...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the tree a top of the 10th pitch acc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Regular Route on Fairview Dome, 09/17/2010
BETA PHOTO: Regular Route on Fairview Dome, 09/17/2010
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the 8th pitch (according to Supertopo...
BETA PHOTO: The start of the 8th pitch (according to Supertopo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from Crescent Ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from Crescent Ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: crescent ledge
crescent ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from Crescent Ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from Crescent Ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route
The Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse above the crescent ledge
Traverse above the crescent ledge

Show All 32 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2017
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

The climbing isn't that spectacular, but it's a long route and well worth doing.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2006

You can link 1&2 with a 60m rope and about 20' of simul climbing. Climb past the tree on your left at the 200' mark and have your second start climbing as you continue up a handcrack to a stance on a nice ledge below the awesome finger crack of P3. The belay requires thin finger to finger sized pieces as I recall. From here you can make it to Crescent Ledge in two pitches and avoid the crappy hanging belay.
By Adam Stackhouse
Jun 23, 2007

Best photo Photo
By Dennis
Aug 12, 2007

Climbed it this weekend. Great fun, ~5 hours car-to-car.

Some beta on P4. Do the Hollow Flake variation on the crescent arch pitch. Easy, exposed, and fun!
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Nov 29, 2007

Free Super Topo:
By SFClimber
Aug 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

fun and accessible.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Tremendous. P1 is climbable by bridging, sorry I mean stemming, even when there is a wet streak down the groove.
By zwang
Sep 8, 2009

Agree with Blitzo, the climbing isnt spectacular but certainly fun. Lots more enjoyable stuff to do if there is a line. There was a little water seepage in the crack on the first pitch 9/7/09, not a problem at all. The first 4 pitches as we did it (up to pitch 6 in ST) were enjoyable. After that its a 4th class romp to the top with one or two moves of very easy 5th mixed in. We linked pitches 3 and 4 as well as 5 and 6 with a 70m. Simul-climbed to the top from the end of pitch 6 in the ST guide. If you are a fast party and you arent behind a slow party it is certainly possible to do this car to car in under 3 even belaying out the first half of the climb.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

outstanding route- good quality and interesting climbing the entire way. if you're crafty, you can get to the top of the interesting climbing in 4 70m rope lengths (or 5 if you dont like that upper traverse), then two more long lengths to the top.

take the supertaco rack if you do it this way for enough gear.
By Craig Randleman
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 1, 2010

Topped out with some dudes from Mazama who were road-tripping with Fred Beckey! They showed us some vid clips on their nice camera of Fred rambling about all kinds of whacky shit. Tramped down to find Fred in the parking lot! Holy Shit! What a day!!!
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route can actually be climbed in one long pitch, but you'll need an 800 foot rope.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Sep 13, 2010

Perhaps the biggest surpise to me on this route was that most of the gear was small, not hand-size like I assumed from the grade. Bring nuts and doubles of tcu's/master cams. I think I placed the #3 C4 once on the whole route. A little disappointed at the quality, but it is a beautiful line up a big piece of rock. West Crack is better.
By Dave Alden
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Great route, the crux is low on P1. Partner and I did the route in 8-9 pitches, you'd really have to try hard to do in it more pitches than that. The last 2-3 pitches can be simulclimbed or made into a scramble. One of the best routes in Tuolumne hands down.
By e Dixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This thing goes super quick. We did five roped pitches, then put it on our back and soloed the rest. Was our second route of our first day in the Meadows. Super fun time!
By Ryan Williams
From: London (sort of)
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First 400 feet are very fun and the rest is just getting to the top. Still interesting though, and a good time. If you're OK on easy 5th, you can put the ropes on your backs and solo the top 400 feet or so.

We showed up at 8am and were fourth in line. We took a bottle of wine along to make the waiting a little more fun. If you and your partner are fast you should just wait until a clear afternoon, make sure there are no epics going on and then start late.
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Oct 19, 2011

climbed this on monday the 17th of october. and the first three pitches were soaking wet. 1/2 into all cracks was a stream of water. once we got up to the crecent ledge it was covered in snow. pitches 8-10 had snow all over them. the 10th pitch which claims to be a lot of 4th class is not , or we were to far left and it was solid 5-6. above that was correct. we walked of the back in the dark. stay more south then you think if you go to far right it gets scary and super unsafe at night follow the cairns and stay left and more south till you get to the ground. hard to find the signs at the bottom of lucky streaks. we just walked all the way to the base of the climb were we could see the reflective trail signs on the left.. i dont know if anybody has climbed this route this late.. but i dont recomennd it at all in october. it was freezing cold most of the day even though the forecast was 68 degrees in the high country this thing does not warm up well.
By steple
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Send me message if you climbed this route on Saturday June 16th. I might have a picture if you. Parties 1 and 4 especially, later ones may appear small in the picture.

(I'll delete this comment at some point.)
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Simul climbed in three pitches. Anchor at pitch two, trade off above cresent and then to the top, 2 hours to climb.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 5, 2012

Signs That This May Be A Popular Climb (all seen in one day):
  • a pair of climbers on a racing jog up the approach trail;
  • someone trying to find the owner of a Volvo key which had been dropped on the approach trail;
  • leader at top of P1 calling down instructions about how to clean gear;
  • two new-ish stuck nuts left by second with no experience cleaning gear and with no nut tool;
  • dropped sling;
  • dropped #1 Black Diamond C4 caught by party below;
  • dropped helmet camera scattered in pieces at the base;
  • climber indicating while queued up that he may have left a set of alien cams back at the parking lot on the ground;
  • another key found near parking lot while looking for aliens;
  • twelve cars in/near the parking lot late in the morning.
By Will Stat
Nov 18, 2012

Great route.

DO the flake variation on the pitch above crescent ledge, it's awesome!

Be prepared for the first pitch crux to be soaking wet and have lots of gooey chalk oozing out of the crux finger locks, it's not uncommon and will make the move feel like 5.10. A leader below us found out the hard way, fell, popped a cam, scraped himself up and bailed.
By Cunning Linguist
Jul 30, 2013

My first good-sized route at the Meadows. Rack was single wires, single rack to 4 with some extra small cams to .75ish, don't forget the med-lg offset wires, they go in everywhere. Crux is short-maybe 3 moves of legit .9, look for feet on your left, don't stress the wet locks-there are a lot more coming when it goes to hands just above, but easier by far. 2nd pitch was most sustained and nerve-wracking; very greasy, smarmy feel. A lot of .8 move to .8 move to .8 move, more actual rock climbing on this pitch than the rest of the route for my money, more incentive to protect often with your feet sliming around on 10,000 people's hand grease, though there are a few good rests and it's OVER after the roof. Route above goes quickly, linking and simuling definitely work well on this route with smart runnering and a 70. Walkoff is climber's right from the summit, no one seems to mention descents in the comments. Mellow but if you're flip flopping it you'll regret it, slabby steepness on the walkdown will wear on your toes.

Don't be afraid to get up before the sun to get on this one, it's easily combined with other routes if you get an early start, but people will be lined up by 6 or 7 a.m. to begin the gumby conga line, so don't be party #15 on this one+c-block those of us who've placed gear before. Or, just dip in the river and get yo drank on. Beautiful place, enjoyable route.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Per the MP pitch breakdown, I thought P1-6 all offered great climbing.
Really fun and more sustained through P6 than I thought it would be after reading everyone's comments.
Had 3 other parties, and apparently that was an uncrowded day.
By David Dennis
From: High Sierra
Aug 20, 2014

Did this on this past Monday, with only one other team higher up on the route. One of the funnest climbs I've done in Tuolumne; lived up to the hype. Didn't see the fixed pin at the 5.9 roof, maybe it was hidden? It was easy to find pro there anyways.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

the pin is to the right, protecting the 5.7 lb variation

70m rope links 1+2, 2 to big ledge (7x10' on supertaco), and 6+7;

p1-wet and slick
By MisterCattell Cattell
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Sep 18, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Since the climbing on the route isn't worth being on there for hours, I would recommend pitching out pitch 1, then simul-climbing to the top after that. Doing it in this fashion allowed my friend and I to do this route in 2 hours on-sight.
By City Dweller
From: New York, NY
Oct 10, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Beta alert: Get there early!
By Marlene Machemy
From: Squamish
Jun 12, 2016

Dave, we got your cam that you dropped on Regular Route on June 10th!
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Jul 21, 2016

We started late in the afternoon, did the first 4 pitches in 3 with a 60M, then rapped off with 2 60's. Casual day of 5 star crack climbing. The rap stations are old school, so bring some webbing and rings if you want to beef them up.
By Andre H.
From: Boulder
Jul 21, 2016

Just a casual 5-star post about your bail, NBD.
By Colin Szehner
From: Oakland, Ca
Aug 26, 2016

Great exposure!
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Mar 18, 2017
rating: 5.15d

Fuck the Haters!

Its a classic passage up one of the most beautiful formations of stone on the planet.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 18, 2017

I'm with you there Mr Tut
By DustinKleckner
Jul 23, 2017

As of July 22, the crux is still quite wet -- this 10 foot section felt a whole lot harder than 5.9 as a result.
By kmyee
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 28, 2017

50 crowded for sure. Rolled up at 9:30 on Saturday expecting a bit of a wait. Found one party waiting at the base and at least 3 others on the first 3 pitches. One of the parties on P1 said they'd been there since 7am. Yikes.

Thanks to the party at the base that left to do West Crack instead, and to the guys from SF/Oakland that let us pass on crescent ledge. Hope you guys finished in a timely fashion.

Also, bring your helmets out for this one. Came within 3 feet of whacked by a dropped #11 BD nut (the big gold one) from a pitch above.
By Josh Lowy
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

An okay climb to an awesome summit.
Waited for roughly 2 hours behind two parties, the lead party of 3 climbing slow and belaying both followers separately. Our party of 4 stayed on their tail without much trouble. Be prepared for crowds and waits.
Crescent Ledge belay options are okay but I was hoping for better. Ended up building my anchor to the far right with all of the larger gear I had left.
Linked P6 and 7 with ease, the belay 'ledge' was crowded with 2 people though.
The upper sections of the climb have easy terrain, you just have to look for it.

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