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Queen Victoria
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Regular Route T 
Route To Nowhere S 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chuck Martens 1969
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 13,367
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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Flying the Marine Corps flag on Veteran's Day.


This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.

P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.

P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above.

P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.


Standard rack selection, nuts and cams. Take two ropes. I have a friend who says he made the raps with a single 60m rope. Some downclimbing might be necessary if you go that way.


Rappel 100 feet from summit to a pair of bolts on the edge of the limestone (this anchor is located to the northwest of where you climb the wide crack). Then rappel another 100 feet to the base of the east side of the formation. Note: This descent CAN be made with a single 60m rope, but you should take note of the ends of your rope at all times!!! The bottom rappel will involve downclimbing some easy terrain to flat ground, so DO NOT rap off the end of your rope!!!

Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the route
Looking up at the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Double rope rapping queen vic
Double rope rapping queen vic
Rock Climbing Photo: the view at the top
the view at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse over to the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Traverse over to the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah climbing pitch one in graduation garb
Sarah climbing pitch one in graduation garb
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch
BETA PHOTO: First pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon on summit.  Photo Todd...
Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon on summit. Photo Todd...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fly by on the summit
Fly by on the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Dana Ikeda belaying from pitch 3
Dana Ikeda belaying from pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay at the top of pitch two.  One bolt, huge led...
BETA PHOTO: Belay at the top of pitch two. One bolt, huge led...
Rock Climbing Photo: Queen Victoria in the center.  You should drive a ...
BETA PHOTO: Queen Victoria in the center. You should drive a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at pitch 2 from the top of pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 2 from the top of pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the 3rd pitch of Queen Victoria, Sed...
Looking up at the 3rd pitch of Queen Victoria, Sed...

Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 2, 2016
By Dean Hoffman
Feb 26, 2006

I think this is a great intro to Sedona Route, challenging climbing for the uninitiated and awesome summit. It most definitely can be rapped with one 60 meter rope, just be sure you have the middle marked. Also as far as the rack is concerened, most would do fine with a single set from around blue metolius to "old style, not C4" #4 Camalot (only needed on the second pitch, but having just done it without one I'd recommend not forgetting it!) Also to whomever is chalking up the route with ratings and other random grafitti, c'mon this is Sedona. Good luck and enjoy!
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 19, 2006

To avoid the pitch 2 OW climb straight up off the first belay and through a 5.7+ corner in the Limestone band. This ends at one of the rappel anchors. I would recommend climbing the OW pitch at least once though because it is fun.
By rick klemens
Jan 22, 2008

Great classic route. Kind of chossy but good gear and a great summit!!!
By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Mar 15, 2009

#4 C4 a very good idea for pitch 2, #5 is unnecessary unless you have one burning a hole in your pocket. Or, unless you have 90$ burning a hole in your pocket and are looking for an excuse to buy a #5. You can get an at least marginal placement with a small cam (#2 C3 for example) making the #5 unnecessary, especially since the move it protects is not hard unless you are very short. Also, there is one bolt at the top of the second pitch on a huge ledge. Great climb!
By Kimberly Creagan
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We had a great time on this route. It was very interesting, challenging, and thrilling. Most of the route seemed pretty easy, but the OW and the Dihedral seemed more like a 5.9 move to me. A little harder than I was expecting for my first multi-pitch, but wonderful none-the-less. Hiking the trail up is recommended (oops)...park at the semi-circle pullout on the left about 2 miles up if you want to link to the trail right away. Otherwise, you can hook up to the trail from the one before that by hiking up the wash.
By Angela Mabe
From: Flagstaff,AZ
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

this was such a fun climb! im glad i brought the 5 up with me. i had the newer C4 for the offwidth and it fit fine. placed nothing smaller than a .5 and the summit was unbelievable!! sedona adventure climbing for sure :)
By Greg Malloure
From: Prescott Az
Jan 30, 2012

Great begginer climb. The pitches are short but have challenges, the ledges are huge, and the summit is great.

That said dont expect much climbing on this route.

I recomend the pitch 2 variation up the corner to avoid the OW. Its more fun. I would disagree about it being 5.7+ maybe a little harder. But if you can climb 5.7 just sew it up and go for it. Its the only move on the pitch so you can use a ton of gear to protect it.

If you take the second pitch variation a single set of cams from .4 to 2 (camolots) as well as a set of nuts will suffice for the entire route.

Aviod bringing two ropes unless you have to. The route raps easily with one 60m rope.
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

You can double rope rap this one, and scramble the last ten feet.Rappel the chute on the climbers right of the start chimney.Great introduction to trad, and well protected crux moves.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Approach from cowpiles may be longer but is a great walk and you get to tour the area's standout lines. Highly recommended. I like doubles .5-2, single 3, 4, 5. Both the 4 and 5 are perfect for the short crux of p2. Nice spot for the 5 on p3 too.
By Micah Kurtz
From: Denver, Co
Mar 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun climb. The first pitch is the best in my opinion just because it has the most climbing. The other two pitches are basically just one move. I did think that the pro on the third pitch was very scarce until you get to the dihedral, which made it a little scary. Other then that all the pro seemed secure, no need for a #5 on pitch two, just squeeze in and reach for the ledge.
By Laurel Arndt
From: Phoenix
Apr 8, 2013

Fun day, agree with prior comments, first route has most/best climbing other pitches are 1-2 moves and than easy. If you have a #5 take it, just to make you feel better.

Just for clarification for anyone climbing Sedona or this route for the first time, you truly only need one rope..on the second rap you will be 15 feet short with a 60 and the "downclimb" is very easy. Maybe Greg can edit this in the beta section, not just on the threads.
By Paul Zander
From: Tucson, AZ
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you're 6' 4" this will feel 5.6 because you'll be able to reach above the cruxes to large ledges. The views are stellar. Don't bring two ropes. Even if your rope is short you can break it into 3 rappels by using the anchors at the top of the first pitch without a problem.
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 30, 2013

Hey wanted to give folks a heads up. A large group of us (7) will be climbing this spire on Sunday October 6th around noon as part of a wedding. Of course we will be happy let people pass, but just wanted to give a heads up that it may be a cluster up there.
By JBain
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 30, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This spire is a great intro to mutli pitch climbing for beginners. I did this with a friend a day before ACL surgery. The hike was the hardest part for me. You don't need the #5 but I say if you have one, bring it. One 70 meter rope does the trick with plenty left at the rap stations. You probably could get away with one 60 meter rope. Enjoy!
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the summit
View from the summit
By David Arthur Sampson
Feb 20, 2014

I want to give a heads up for Saturday (22 February, 2014); I am bringing a group up Queen Vic this Saturday. I will work with those (outside my group) that also plan on doing the climb that day. Hopefully we can all summit and have a wonderful, enjoyable climb! I am certain we can work it out.

By Josh Tokioka
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 5, 2014

Hey everyone, I'll be climbing Queen Victoria on Tuesday next week [11.11.14]. Just a heads up, we will be a part of three.
By B Lewis
May 28, 2015

At the top of the first pitch there are no rap rings. There is a tree with a sling to the left of the anchors, but we opted not to use it because of an extremely loose boulder in contact with it. It could be pushed off, but there were other people in the area that day, so we opted to leave a sling and biners on the anchors of the first pitch 5/24/15. (Forgot the knife this day for webbing and a rap ring)

The #4 camalot was crucial for the second pitch offwidth. It's a limestone band and a little slick. If you're taller ~6ft there's no need for a #5. I just jumped up and grabbed the top. We did it in 2 pitches, but the rope drag got pretty bad. You should definitely bring 2 ropes.

On the approach we went up the wash like the page recommends, but saw a trail from the top which was way more pleasant of a hike. We believe it was the "cow pies" trail.
By Alex "Tojo" Kray
From: Chandler, AZ
Nov 16, 2015

I think i used a total of 4 pieces for this entire route. I read from some where that some one thought the hardest part of this route is the approach, i think id have to agree.

Pitch 1 is definitely the money pitch, being the only pitch that you are actually climbing its entirety.

Pitch 2 is more of a hike to the limestone off-width. The off-width is split, more or less, in half. The bottom half is good for a #4 c4, wedge in as high as you until you can reach the lip then pull up over. The second half takes a #5 c4 but is completely unnecessary, even if this is your first trad lead. You can easily reach the bomber lip of the limestone, even if you are short (the first half of the limestone is the height dependent part). After you are on top of the limestone, you reach a ledge big enough to park a truck on it. HIKE up and left to a bolt for anchors.

Pitch 3 in my opinion had the funnest moves which were more less pull ups, obviously could have used more technique but i thought it warranted some "monkeying around" on :)
By Phillipe61
Dec 14, 2015

We drove to three different parking areas and there is no picnic table. The circle pullout is the largest parking spot and is around 1.9 miles from the start of the unpaved road. Note: high clearance vehicle is needed to get back there. Head north from parking lot and get on the Munds wagon trail heading west. The trail heads down a wash but then takes a sharp right turn heading north and then west again where it crosses the hangover trail. Take the hangover trail towards the northwest where you will come across a steep climbers trail that heads up and around to the east side of Queen Victoria. We used a 70 meter rope and it got all the way to the base. I found clipping into the tree on the 2nd pitch useless.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One of the best introductions to Sedona spire climbing, especially for rookie climbers. The actual class-5 moves on this route are few and short-lived, and the summit is incredible. Lots of cairns on the approach from Schnebly Hill Road, just head for the spire and you really can't go wrong.

P1 is a chimney on the east face that starts off very easy and steepens for a brief sequence of 5.6 moves near the top.
P2: Start by scrambling left to a tree at the base of an offwidth dihedral in the limestone band. This 10' tall feature takes a single #4. Continue scrambling left to a belay anchor (one bolt backed by small-med cams) on a southern ledge.
P3: Scramble up, pull a small juggy roof, and scramble some more to the summit. Feels much easier than the quoted 5.7+ grade.