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Middle Spire
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L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass S 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,484
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 2, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
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Elbow deep in Regular Route.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Regular Route lies on the East side of Middle Spire and starts about 25' left of the large dead horizontal tree/log. The first pitch is 70' and the start is an obvious left slanting hand crack on a near vertical face. Gear placement for the first 10' is a bit strenous as the crack wants to spit you out and you are falling to the left with little feet! A few hard moves brings you to an in-balance stance and from here on up the difficulty eases all the way to the slabby ledges. The second pitch is a 5.8 chimney which we didn't do. See The Prow!


Mostly medium to larger cams protect the harder lower hands to wide hands crack sections. Climbing eases after 25' but crack still takes small to medium gear. Most people stop on the slabby ledges which has plenty of 1-2" cracks for gear placement.

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By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

The second pitch chimney is easy 5.6. The face variation is left of the chimney and is 5.8 R.
By Chris DeWitt
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 31, 2010

I was just there last friday. I definitely agree with Blitzo, the chimney is easy 5.6. Easiest way up middle spire is skipping the first pitch of this route by walking to the left of it and doing the second of this route. Nice way to get TR up on candy land or whatever you want to climb.

The face variation does look fun. I wish there was just one bolt in it..
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pitch 1 (3 stars): The first 15 feet are really hard! Especially the move left onto the little pedestal. I don't see how it could be rated 5.8. Much harder than classic 5.8s (e.g., Bishop's Terrace, Harry Daily) in Yosemite Valley. I led both this climb and The Prow 5.10b on sight, and this climb felt much harder!

Pitch 2 (1 star): I disagree with pitch 2 being "easy 5.6." I made the mistake of trying to worm my way up the first narrow section with a big cam in my face and didn't get far, so I downclimbed and started over. I repositioned the big cam in the flake on the right wall, then climbed the left wall a few moves (search for a hidden handhold in an incipient crack) until I could chimney with my back against the right wall. Still felt like 5.8 to me, but maybe I'm just bad at chimneying. Did I climb it wrong?
By NorCalNomad
From: San Francisco
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The rusty 1/4" bolts at the regular route anchors have been replaced with 3/8" bolts, fixie hangers, and petzl quick links.
By NorCalNomad
From: San Francisco
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not to be a dick Floyd but that first pitch is no where CLOSE to 5.10, sounds like you have to work on your technique a bit. I onsight lead solo'd it and I can only do a handful of 5.10 leads and two 5.11's at my peak.
By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Perfect hands, might be harder for those with tiny ones.
By Riley McDonald
Oct 6, 2013

I don't know what kind of Johnny Benchian hands you guys have, but for me this was fists almost the whole way. My partner said the same, and we have pretty average hands.

I agree with the P2 chimney being around 5.6 if you don't go too deep and make it awkward.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

P1 would be top end VS 5a in UK for the awkward start - the remainder of the crack is wide hands 4b.
By grabski
From: N California
Jun 19, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For pitch 1: two #2 and two #3 C4s protects the first section of the pitch well, then a few smaller cams for the top section. I have medium-large hands. The first 15ft was hands/cupped hands, the next 20ft was tight fists. Fun stuff. If only more of the climb was like this first section.

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