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The Rhino's Horn
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Fifteen Minutes of Shame T 
Regular Route T 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: FA Eric Bjornstad Tony Valdez 1985
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Nov 1, 2001

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this is what a good time looks like

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The regular (and only?) route starts on the far west end of the formation, and basically follows the easiest-angled line. Start up a funky slabby feature, with overlaps, into an obvious dihedral. Once in the dihedral, there is good gear, but getting to it is bouldery and runout. The dihedral is quite good, with stemming and jamming, and a strenuous finish into ledgy ramp. We belayed up and right, on a nice ledge, under a large perched block. Pitch 2 starts by negotiating (yikes--laybacking!) the block. This is spooky, as it looks barely attached, and its removal would have unpleasant consequences for the whole party. Once you leave the block behind, meander up and right (we stayed just below the crest), on high quality 5.7ish face climbing, with little or no gear (get it where you can, and leave long slings to avoid rope drag) until you reach easy ground and the base of the final pillar. This was a rope stretching pitch. On the last pitch, we took the left crack (it looked easier). This turned out to be real nice, varied jamming and stemming and mostly good rock. The wide section in the middle is not as hard as it appears! The descent is tricky. There was no sign of previous rap anchors. I recall we tied off a block or used a thread, and needed extra webbing to reach the edge of the top ( bring some spare webbing to help here) and rapped down the north face. Two 200' ropes made it to a large ledge with no obvious anchor possibilities, from where we spent some time searching for a feasible downclimb to the ground. This is a fun route (well kinda), with three 5.9ish pitches, and a nice summit.


bring a selection of cams from small to offwidth size. Maybe one or two of each to 4" or 5", heavy on the hand/fist-size stuff. A few large wires. Extra webbing and slings.

Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: gear placed on last pitch
gear placed on last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: into the fun!
into the fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: looks ugly: it's not!!!
looks ugly: it's not!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: before pic of rap station
before pic of rap station
Rock Climbing Photo: my pal rusty
my pal rusty
Rock Climbing Photo: taylor at the start just below the antique viewing...
taylor at the start just below the antique viewing...

Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 27, 2003

The Rhino Horn is about 8.5 miles below the La Sal Loop roadand from most vantage points is not up high on a ridge. The first pitch is very hard for 5.9. The third pitch is easy for 5.9 and very enjoyable. We rappelled north 150 feet to a large ledge, then rappelled (off a tree) again 80 feet to easy slabs.
By Eric Odenthal
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

pitch 1 - sketchy moves to a bolt, then fun crack climbing leading to a chossy ledge. big gear for the belay.
pitch 2 - climb past a death block to another death block to a ramp. the pitch ends at two bolts.
pitch 3 - ran up 40 feet of 4th class to belay below the chimney, probably don't need to do this and just run it all the way to the top.
pitch 4 - climb up the left most obvious dihedral past a few roofs... great climbing, to the summit.

rap from the top three bolts to the two bolts on top of pitch two. we rapped to the south side off the bolts. I left some slings at that belay. bring webbing just incase.

two 60m ropes, gear to #5 camalot.
By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 24, 2012

First pitch is dirty and full of some scary kitty litter rock after the first 50 feet. Eventually it goes to an established anchor but with rope drag you'll want to do an initial belay after the worst of the kitty litter leads to a decent tree belay.

From there a short pitch atop the slab to an established anchor.

From there a 60M won't get you you to the top. Even if it did, rope drag would be heinous. Need to do an intermediate belay at the base of the crack that leads to the top of the tower.

Climb the crack to the left. Very funky but protects well.

At the top we put in new webbing at the anchor. The double rope rap takes you back to the intermediate anchor. From there rap off the south side of the formation and the double ropes go directly to the ground and fairly close to your stuff at the base of the climb.

Pure adventure. And so much fun.
By TonyV
From: Cool, CA
Dec 14, 2012

When Eric and I put up the route we didn't add any bolts. The descent from what I remember was from webbing around a block. Good to see their are rap bolts. I'm not too happy about the adding of bolts for the sake of safety unless agreed to by the first ascentists. But that is my humble opinion. I'm glad to see the route is seeing some traffic. Enjoy desert rock and be safe!

By Evan Deis
Mar 29, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

This can be done in two pitches with a seventy. We did so with a sixty, requiring my second to climb a few feet to get me to the chains. Several Death blocks. This route is moderate but should be taken seriously as the rock is never that good. 5.9 R. Bring Chord. Standard Desert Rack.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

this thing is great fun. way cleaner than we expected. the crux is getting off the ground. the climb is standard 5.9. protects well and the R is perhaps a small r (ie: not that bad at all). the wide stuff is easy, by wide stuff standards. great spacious summit. we replaced a ton of tat. good anchors as of this date. from the top, we rapped to the start of the last pitch (with a single 70) pulled and then walked down (bootie skootied) to the bolts. seemed best to pull from there. caution, the crack is hungry and will eat rope. toss it out, not down. we rapped off the south side as per eric's beta. nice call. the old 1/4 inch spinner smc is not really gona do much for ya. we clipped it because it was there, even though theres small pro a foot or two just above it. put this one on your to do list. it's a really fun route! doubles to a 4 camalot. (we only placed 1 stopper). leave the fattie stuff at home.

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