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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Brett Yost August 2002
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Brett Yost on Nov 26, 2016

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Vertical face climbing left of the first pitch of Second Stanza. A moderate 5.7ish section builds up to some 5.10 moves past a series of horizontals. Above this is a rest in a very small left facing corner. From here, step right and climb up a path through the licheny face on crystals and pockets (crux). The hardest moves are perhaps 12-15 feet above the last protection -which is in the small corner before stepping right. There is a 2 bolt anchor on a small ledge, maybe 20-25 feet(? someone update this if you find it) left of and above the start of the second pitch of Second Stanza.


Left of the first pitch of Second Stanza. Rappel or toprope are possible with a single 60 rope from 2 bolt anchor.


A handful of nuts plus some small and medium cams for the horizontal cracks.

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By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 26, 2016

I worked for NCOBS at Table Rock in 2002 and another instructor and I explored this face together on rappel and top rope. He was excited to add several bolts for lead protection but was asked not to by the school and then lost interest. I decided to lead the climb without the bolts but it should be noted that this was after two top rope rehearsals . The upper face through the lichen patch is somewhat runout and may be challenging to decipher onsight, especially if none of the holds have been cleaned or used in 15 years.

I'd appreciate it if someone could supply a photo and update any beta on locating the start or anchor, if necessary. Thanks!
By nbrown
From: western NC
Aug 17, 2017

Brett, I posted a pic of the general area (under the Second Stanza route page) that you're welcome to use if you'd like to draw in the line. I personally would be interested in knowing where it goes, and where that anchor is. Thanks.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 20, 2017

I think the route is behind the large tree in the center of the photo. If you can take some photos of the base of the cliff 10-50 feet left of the start flake on second stanza, I can draw in the route for you
By nbrown
From: western NC
Sep 11, 2017

Finally had a chance to get more pics. Not great quality but maybe helpful?

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