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Reefer Madness 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+ [details]
Page Views: 2,629
Submitted By: cstorms on Oct 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Andy on the sit start to the classic Reefer Madnes...


This is the obvious sit start on a big flake, straight up the face into the crack. From here, work your way directly over the roof via small positive holds, then to the bomber lip. I've seen it listed as V1, but even from the stand start, it feels solid. This is an excellent problem, it is worth a visit if you frequent the Alcove and want to try something new.


At the Temple Overhang, this is the obvious route straight out the roof.


It has a rocky landing, so bring a pad.

Photos of Reefer Madness Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Holds on the route and an indicator showing where ...
BETA PHOTO: Holds on the route and an indicator showing where ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tough start.
Tough start.

Comments on Reefer Madness Add Comment
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By James Goin
From: Watertown, MA
May 16, 2016

Fair warning: most books printed over 5 years ago rate this at V1, classic sandbag rating for the area. Fantastic problem, terrible feet.
By Alex Fox
From: Oberlin, OH
Jun 2, 2016
rating: V4 6B

Very fun problem, though probably the hardest boulder I've seen try to pass off as a V2.

If you look at pictures and videos of this route, there used to be a decent crimp just before the lip. It has since broken off. You now have to go out left to a pinch instead. Much more difficult but arguably a much better route now.

Favorite climb at Hammond.

By Graham O.
Aug 23, 2016
rating: V3 6A

I agree that it was really awesome and that it was crazy stiff for V2 (felt maybe V3/V3+ for me). Sick route though, definitely a Hammond classic....
By Chris DiLeo
Mar 6, 2017

This is such a fun problem. Counter to James' comment, I'd say the feet aren't really that bad. The starting foot holds aren't great, but once you get the feel for them, they're not that bad. Once you get past the start, the feet are actually pretty good. Maybe a little tricky once you start working around the lip.

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