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21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area
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Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
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Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957
Page Views: 5,759
Submitted By: Linnea Williams on Nov 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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Mary leads the third pitch.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a meandering route that features primarily 5.8 hands, stemming, etc. The highlight of the route is definitely the awesomely bizarre and incredibly fun squeeze tunnel at the third pitch. It will make you feel what it's like to be a nut jammed in a perfect constriction.

On the final pitch, once you're on the sloping ledge, don't continue up left, but traverse right onto easier ground.

You could do the last two pitches (tunnel and 5.9 hands) after topping out on Reed's Direct, if you were so inclined.


Pro to 3.5. A No. 4 Cam will make you happier at the start of the final pitch.

Don't miss the piton in the middle of the tunnel. It's up fairly high.

Photos of Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Waiting to head into the infamous chimney.
Waiting to head into the infamous chimney.

Comments on Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route Add Comment
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By fivefun
Sep 12, 2011

The 5.9 variation on P4 is great fun. The OW at the top can be protected with a #2 and #4. I found taking your helmet off to be very useful in the squeeze, just don't fall.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957
By nick.laws
Oct 30, 2012

I had to climb up and over and down at the piton to fit through the squeeze (6'1" but my chest stuck). My smaller partner was able to go directly through below the piton.
By Crimpanzee Shortt
From: San Francisco, California
Nov 17, 2014

I'm 5'7" and broad chested. I got stuck in the squeeze for a minute and had a little moment of panic. Having a nice partner who could guide me through the path of least resistance was key. Definitely type 2 fun on that pitch. The rest was fantastic!
By DustinKleckner
Apr 19, 2016

I don't recommend the 5.9 OW at the end of pitch 4 for budding 5.9 leaders, or those not comfortable with OW! I slid out of it top first and landed with my back on the sloping ledge -- ouch! Luckily I had a piece just below the OW section that slowed me down, and was wearing a helmet (would very likely have had a concussion otherwise). The alternative face finish around to the right is super easy.

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