REI Community
Reeds Creek

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apophis S 
Banzai T 
Bridge Burner S 
Buckaroo S 
Catfish Strangler S 
Dr Taco S 
Harlem S 
Hunter's Moon S 
I Ain't So Sure Hank Did It This Way T 
Internal Dialogue S 
La Machina S 
Little Purple Flowers S 
Reaching Conclusions S 
Sea of Tranquility S 
Second Rule S 
Shorty Longback S 
Skywalker S 
Still Laughing S 
Stop the Presses S 
Super Natural T 
Superman S 
Superwoman S 
Thieves in the Temple S 
Welcome to Reed's Creek S 
Winter Harvest S 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site:

Reeds Creek Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.78496, -79.2901 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,601
Administrators: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: wes calkins on Sep 7, 2014  with updates from TyrelJ
Forecast:
Today

85° | 67°
Tuesday

85° | 65°
Wednesday

75° | 55°
Thursday

74° | 54°
Friday

75° | 55°
Saturday

76° | 56°
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On the approach trail to the right of the road.

Description 

Low key sport climbing area located between Franklin and Petersburg. Limestone cliffs similar in nature to franklin gorge. South facing aspects see all day sun. Many routes from 5.7 to 5.12?

Getting There 

Located near the northern terminus of reeds creek road and hwy 220 just south of the Upper Tract community. Limited parking is available. Once on reeds creek rd the cliff will be visible on the right. Parking will be ahead on the left in a small pullout. Walk back down the road and find a small set of rock steps through the grass that grants access to the far right end of the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Reeds Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Reeds Creek:
Welcome to Reed's Creek   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 55'   
Second Rule   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Superman   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Winter Harvest   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 90'   
Internal Dialogue   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Little Purple Flowers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Bridge Burner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sea of Tranquility   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Apophis   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Catfish Strangler   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Shorty Longback   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 25'   
Hunter's Moon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Reeds Creek

Featured Route For Reeds Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: Send the corner and then the face above the roof.

Winter Harvest 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  West Virginia : Reeds Creek
Another Gunkesque-type sport route with the roof and horizontals above. Crux probably is pulling up onto first set of horizontals above the roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Photos of Reeds Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Reeds creek
BETA PHOTO: Reeds creek
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.10c
Rock Climbing Photo: Reeds creek unknown route
BETA PHOTO: Reeds creek unknown route

Comments on Reeds Creek Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Farnsworth
Feb 24, 2015
Make sure to get a copy of Mike Gray's "A Climber's Guide to Smoke Hole Canyon" for additional route details.
By K Baumgartner
Jun 15, 2015
Mike Gray's A Climber's Guide to Smoke Hole has a must-have (i.e., buy) map of Reed's Creek. Definitely a must buy to understanding this sport crag.
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Jul 29, 2016
If you couldn't get a paper copy of Mike's book (or even if you did have one and want updated and expanded info), check out his just released rakkup guide rakkup.com/guidebooks/smoke-ho...
By Sam Corum
Apr 22, 2017
HIGHLY recommend A Climbers Guide to Reeds Creek by Mike Gray. It's available on Rakkup for 3 or 4 bucks. It gives you 53 sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12+, 12 trad routes from 5.7 to 5.10b, and a few top rope routes. The trail along the crag is well maintained with great shade from the trees during the day.

It was raining the morning we arrived in April but pretty much all of the climbing faces stayed pretty dry except for some top sections but the sun dried them out quickly. If you make your way down to the end you will find RUN-DMC cave with a couple of really fun routes but make a bunch of noise as you approach the mouth of the cave to give the large birds a chance to get out (possibly vultures?). Great area to rest for lunch or to escape rain or sun but the ground is covered in animal droppings so be aware. Also watch for some snakes in cracks along ledges above the cave mouth.

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