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The Tombstone
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Redtail T 

Redtail 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Ketchup on Apr 17, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Above the finger grinding!

Description 

AKA THE OPTIMIZER or Tombstone crack

A sick right facing corner that lures you in with an easy start then turns up the dial into tight hands and rattling fingers. Occasional hand jams help keep you upward, but then flare to an OW finish. Cruxes abound. 1st crux is below the bail nut. Second is above it where the crack goes to finger stacks (least secure). Third is diving into the offwidth. Two bolts for an anchor with some West Desert trash on them. Superb quality throughout!

Location 

The obvious right crack on the south face of the Tombstone.

Protection 

Double C4s .3-3, bring an extra tight hands gear and a #5 for the finish. There's a fixed bail nut about half way, below the crux. I wouldn't whip on it.


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By madskates
From: slc
May 1, 2015

No fixed ball nut that i could find. Not sure what some would consider the crux but that exit move into the o.w was sure the crux for me. This may be one of the cleanest lines i've ever been on, must do if your in the area.

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