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This climb ascends the right trending smiley faced groove and up the overhanging headwall. Sustained and strenuous right off the ground. The only rest is on the ledge below the headwall.
The large chockstone on the headwall appears firmly lodged, and has been yarded on many times.
This route, along with Black Diamond and Shark Crack are located in the alcove at the far east end of the cliff.
Mixed protection. Four bolts and a crucial medium cam placement in a pocket.
By Karl Kiser
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
A red Camalot would work well in the slot.