Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rabbit Rock - Southwest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Go Spud Go! S 
Hyperspuds T,S 
No Satisfaction T 
Redtail S 
Roughleg T 
Seasonal Employment  T 
Spuds in the Gym S 
Sudden Pleasure S 

Redtail 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan and Pat Sperlock 1989
Page Views: 4,666
Submitted By: John Bradford on Jun 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Midway up the route, Sudden Pleasure is to the lef...

Description 

A fantastic route, long and sustained with thin face moves and an airy finish. Start in the crack and work up right onto the face. This route is located on the Spud Wall, and is directly across from the trail junction between the East face of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire. Two ropes to get down.

Protection 

15 bolts to chain anchors. A large camming device can help protect the opening moves. Use a long runner.


Photos of Redtail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Redtail, 5.11a
Redtail, 5.11a
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan at the cruxy start...
Bryan at the cruxy start...

Comments on Redtail Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 6, 2016
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

CONDITION REPORT 
There were no less than 3 shits taken within 30' of the start last weekend. One of them was under a small pile of rocks AT THE START of the route. Toilet paper was floating about. Fucking idiots. I hope whoever's responsible later shat themselves.
By Nathan Fisher
Oct 13, 2005

I sat and watched someone climb that from Morning Glory, and Redtail looked a blast.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 29, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

best 5.11 clip-up at the city
By Bryson Slothower
Jul 19, 2006

two thumbs up!!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route. I found the climbing too inconsistent (the whole top third is only 5.9) to rate this "classic", but still a great route.
By ktmt
From: Missoula, MT
Nov 15, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Highly recommend! I thought this was stiffer than Sudden Pleasure, which seems barely 5.11, whereas this climb, at lest onsight, felt solid for the grade in a couple of places. The moderate climbing in the upper half is cruise city, absolutely enjoyable.

Can descend with one rope by belaying second up, then rapping to Sudden Pleasure anchors and a second rap to the ground. Works great for firing a bonus lap on Sudden Pleasure.
By Kevin Volkening
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Agree with the inconsistent nature of the climb, still fun! Dont bother with the suggestion of a piece for the opening moves
By Ian Cavanaugh
Aug 25, 2014

80m rope once again proves to be the ticket at the city. 42 meter pitch, down easily with rope stretch.
By Rich Kelly
From: Boulder
Sep 27, 2014

I was able to rappel and clean down to where I was level with the anchors on Sudden Pleasure, move over to it and pull the rope and then rappel from it and then clean the rest of my draws from Redtail with a 60mm. It requires just a bit of effort towards the bottom to move rightward to grab the last few draws.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated.
By David Champion
From: Centennial, CO
Jun 19, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Tony, seems you and I were in the City at the same time. In fact we climbed Redtail on Tuesday (6/14), looks like ~2 days before you did? Hard to believe we didn’t run into you at some point during the week.

Last time I did Redtail was in 2009, almost 7 years to the day prior, and I recall being pretty darned impressed with the line. But after 7 years, and many, many routes, it seems I’d relegated that recollection to the dustbin of my memory. Getting on it again brought it all back, though. I think Redtail may be the best bolted line I’ve done. Ever.

Interesting how climbers’ tastes differ.

Did you get on She’s the Bosch? We jumped on it first thing Thursday, after they lifted the raptor closure. Bingham gives both routes 4 stars, his max. She’s the Bosch is undeniably a great line, but I find Redtail much more special. Again, personal opinion. There’s just something about that line—maybe it’s the length, the sustained difficulty, the position, the variety of techniques—that makes it so special for me.

Glad you got a chance to enjoy it, Tony. As well as some other City classics I see from your comments.
By Amylee T
From: Flagastaff, AZ
Jul 6, 2016

i think this line is harder than sudden pleasure. outstanding climbing that makes you thing almost the whole way up. last quarter it eases up a lot, but the whole thing is enjoyable and well worth your time.