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Red's Ruin 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: 1950's
Page Views: 1,521
Submitted By: Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Red's Ruin 5.2 Pitch 1 - looking up first 40 or so...


Good first pitch for teaching new people to climb. The second and third pitchs were actually pretty fun. If you are in the area like I was, give it a go.

Pitch 1 5.0 PG Climb alcove, passing large tree on the right, continue up to the top, sharing belay ledge with Middle Earth's tree (100 ft).

Pitch 2 5.1 PG Diagonal up on ledges, then up (hollow) face to GT Ledge, again belay at a pine tree (80 ft).

Pitch 3 5.2 PG. Per the Dick Williams guide, "Climb corner for 30ft, passing oak tree to ledge. Traverse left for 10 ft, moving up and left to narrow ledge. From left side of ledge, diagnol up left (40 ft of 4th class runout on 4th class slab) to grassy ledge below short right facing corner". (100 ft) I'm not sure if this is what I did. I think it was but I don't believe the route gets climbed that much so I found a lot of lichen.


Look for the next major crack system about 50' right of Middle Earth. To descend, rap down Middle Earth.


Standard gunks rack. Aliens helpful as always.

Photos of Red's Ruin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the start of pitch 3.  Climber beg...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the start of pitch 3. Climber beg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 2 from the belay
BETA PHOTO: Looking down pitch 2 from the belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: View from top of pitch 3
View from top of pitch 3

Comments on Red's Ruin Add Comment
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Apr 8, 2013

While it's a good route for a new 2nd, it's NOT a good route for a new leader. As a well-experienced leader needing a vertical nap, I was simultaneously sleepy and horrified on this route -- very sparse pro. But very easy. Just don't fall.
By Kurtz
Jun 21, 2015

You have to traverse quite far left on P3 after climbing the left-facing corner. Otherwise, you end up on P3 of Snowpatch which has a 5.5 PG crux at the left end of the big overhang. The picture in the back of the Grey Dick is helpful.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 23, 2016
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Well said JSH.

Pitch 1 is easy to follow, Pitch 2 wanders up right to a hollowish wall, then straight up a couple short faces. You'll see the left facing corner start of pitch 3 a few feet left above the last face. You'll need to cross a dirty slope (this is the GT ledge) with plenty of loose rock (if you actually check what's there) to the base of the corner. Gear is not the greatest. Yellow alien, #3 and #4 C4 were the best placements I could find, and only the yellow alien was bomber. A few feet below on the ledge is a decent tree I'd probably opt to use next time (there won't be a next time).

The final pitch (3) has a bouldery start. You can work your way up to just below the 5.5 PG section of Snowpatch and head left 30 feet to the short (clean) corner with the tree growing right on top of it. I found the corner with the tree was, shall we say, not "5.2"? Maybe only a grade or two harder(?).

The route is worth doing if you want to sneak in an adventure on a busy day. But I would caution any new leaders to hop on this as it's really a Gunks 5.2 for the 5.7 leader. Committing moves, at times sparse gear, and half the holds need a good raking. It's fun in a perverse way. Like off-width climbing.

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