|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 280'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012|
|Comments on Red's Ruin||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Apr 8, 2013
|While it's a good route for a new 2nd, it's NOT a good route for a new leader. As a well-experienced leader needing a vertical nap, I was simultaneously sleepy and horrified on this route -- very sparse pro. But very easy. Just don't fall.|
Jun 21, 2015
|You have to traverse quite far left on P3 after climbing the left-facing corner. Otherwise, you end up on P3 of Snowpatch which has a 5.5 PG crux at the left end of the big overhang. The picture in the back of the Grey Dick is helpful.|
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 23, 2016
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Well said JSH.
Pitch 1 is easy to follow, Pitch 2 wanders up right to a hollowish wall, then straight up a couple short faces. You'll see the left facing corner start of pitch 3 a few feet left above the last face. You'll need to cross a dirty slope (this is the GT ledge) with plenty of loose rock (if you actually check what's there) to the base of the corner. Gear is not the greatest. Yellow alien, #3 and #4 C4 were the best placements I could find, and only the yellow alien was bomber. A few feet below on the ledge is a decent tree I'd probably opt to use next time (there won't be a next time).
The final pitch (3) has a bouldery start. You can work your way up to just below the 5.5 PG section of Snowpatch and head left 30 feet to the short (clean) corner with the tree growing right on top of it. I found the corner with the tree was, shall we say, not "5.2"? Maybe only a grade or two harder(?).
The route is worth doing if you want to sneak in an adventure on a busy day. But I would caution any new leaders to hop on this as it's really a Gunks 5.2 for the 5.7 leader. Committing moves, at times sparse gear, and half the holds need a good raking. It's fun in a perverse way. Like off-width climbing.