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Rednecks, Pistols, and Whiskey T 

Rednecks, Pistols, and Whiskey 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C1+ [details]
FA: Cameron Burns, Bryan Gall, Smith Maddrey, and Jeff Widen 3/12/2000
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Nov 28, 2016

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Summit spire silhouette.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A varied outing on mostly decent rock (if you're accustomed to the VOG) up a cool detached spire. It is a bit of an excursion since many of the pitches are separated by big ledges and breaks between bands. Be prepared for some talus rambling (wear comfy shoes or bring approach shoes) and much coiling and uncoiling of ropes. However, the pitches are mostly short, straightforward, and generally go quickly. They don't logistically lend themselves to linking. A big plus of the rather disjointed nature of the route is that all belays are on good ledges.

Start on the left (west) side of the formation, with P1 and P2 leading to a hanging bowl separating the upper spire from the cliff behind. Scramble up about 80' or so of 4th class blocks and slab to a large ledge. P1 lies pretty much in the center of the trough below the hanging bowl.

P1-- 10' or so right of a flared, seamed out corner on blonde rock is a right-facing corner on reddish rock, guarded by a blocky lower band and a distinct 4' roof with a flared handcrack. The anchors can't be seen from the base of the route. Start carefully up the loose, blocky band, trying to stem around the worst blocks and placing dubious tiny cams; this stretch is probably .9/10- and is the most sketchy part of the route. Gain the flaky, flared handcrack in the roof, plug some deep cams, surmount the roof (C1 or free at 10/11 ish?) into a thin handcrack on much better rock in the upper, right-facing dihedral. Clean aid or free (5.10ish?) the corner, which varies from .3-#3 BD to a good ledge and 2 bolt belay. 5.9+, C1, 80'

P2-- Traverse 10' right from the anchor, step down and into a crack leading into a slot with a fistcrack in the back. Exit the slot, pull a bulge with a thin handcrack and blocky faceholds, finish up a short blocky corner to a 2 bolt belay on a huge ledge on the downhill edge of the hanging bowl. 5.9, 50'

Slog up the talus bowl to the next short band, guarding the notch between the summit spire and the wall behind.

P3-- We're not sure if we were off-route here, as the description in Desert Rock IV lists this as 5.7, and it seemed markedly harder. However, we did take the path of least resistance, up a left-leaning, corner/ramp about 20' left of the rap anchors visible from below. Carefully climb the rotten, blocky ramp, moving right at 10' and up some hollow flakes to a heinous mantel onto a choss ledge and a final short, left-facing corner. I pulled on a few pieces to get through this due to rock quality. The worst pitch on the route. I ran the rope around a huge boulder on the massive ledge above to belay. 5.9, C1, 40'

Walk the ledge south (toward the road and river) around the left (east) side of the summit tower. Once on the south prow, scramble up to a final short band guarding the summit spire.

P4-- A varying splitter with a hollow flake on the left side leads to the rubble ledge below the summit spire proper. There is no belay anchor, and no good gear options; we belayed off of the 1st bolt on the summit bolt ladder, but strongly consider clipping the first 2 bolts as they are undersized. 5.9+, 40'

P5-- You've done it, you're on the summit spire proper now. Break out the etriers and launch up the bolt ladder, which unfortunately consists almost entirely of 1/4" wedge bolts. The 3rd bolt is pulling out, move gently on it, or better yet bring a drill and replace it. Most of the 15 or so bolts are pretty closely spaced, making progress pretty quick. There is a short crack in the middle that was nailed, but goes clean easily on tiny cams (bring purple C3-#1 BD). The last few bolts are good 3/8" Powers and a drilled angle; move right after the angle into a lower-angled corner of very bad rock with a couple more fixed pins and some easy but sketchy free climbing to a 2 bolt anchor on a good ledge. 5.7, C1+, 90'

P6-- Move left on the ledge and just around the southwest corner of the tower and up a slabby flake and face that's easy but marginally protected. 5.7, 30'

Enjoy the sweet waterpocketed summit and the stellar views!

Rap back down and reverse the route. With some attention, a single 70m should work fine. Rap from the summit to the top of P5 (anchor not kitted with slings/rings). Rap to the ledge below P4 in a full 35m (watch ends!). Walk back to the top of P3 and rap that. Walk down bowl. Rap P2 to top of P1. Rap to ledge below P1. Scramble down 4th class to ground.

Location 

Starts on the left (west) side of the formation's south face. The first 2 pitches lead up the trough to the obvious hanging bowl between the summit tower and the wall behind.

Protection 

In BD sizes:
(1X) purple, green, red C3 (2X).3,.4,.5
(3X).75, #1, #2
(2X) #3
(1X) new #4, old #4 (new #5 would prob work)
70m rope
extra webbing/cord and rings/links


Photos of Rednecks, Pistols, and Whiskey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: San Jaun River and Monument Valley from the summit...
San Jaun River and Monument Valley from the summit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 4-6.
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 4-6.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3, as we did it.
BETA PHOTO: P3, as we did it.
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit spire as seen from the hanging bowl.
The summit spire as seen from the hanging bowl.
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily Reinsel on P2.
Emily Reinsel on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The 4th class scramble, and P1 with belays marked.
BETA PHOTO: The 4th class scramble, and P1 with belays marked.
Rock Climbing Photo: The tower seen from John's Canyon Road.
BETA PHOTO: The tower seen from John's Canyon Road.

Comments on Rednecks, Pistols, and Whiskey Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Feb 6, 2017

The view from the summit of Mount Chomama has to be one of the best in the desert!
benkiessel.blogspot.com/2014/0...

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