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Redneck Wonderland 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: M. Nad and J. Nad
Season: Fall - Spring
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: kennoyce on Feb 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo, in case it's somehow not totally obvious.

Description 

This route looks really fun (and easy) from the ground, but ends up packing quite the punch once you get on it. Cruiser climbing leads to the second bolt where the business starts. Make a hard deadpoint to a sloping crimp with your right hand, then get your feet high and dyno to the jugs above. The guidebook says 5.12b/c and that the crux involves pinching a tiny cobble. Well, I didn't find any tiny cobble, and the rating felt upper end 5.12c to me, so maybe something broke since the FA.

Location 

This is the route between Sandstoner Reverse and Short and Dorkey. The route is obvious if you are standing at the base of Sandstoner.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2 welded coldshuts


Photos of Redneck Wonderland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the Anchors
Clipping the Anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: The juggy top section.
The juggy top section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux.
Just past the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the crux dyno.
Setting up for the crux dyno.
Rock Climbing Photo: Feet cutting after the first deadpoint.
Feet cutting after the first deadpoint.

Comments on Redneck Wonderland Add Comment
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 23, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

In a place largely full of what would be one star climbs at most crags, this one gets 3 stars for the gap. Staying left and traversing over back right above the 2nd bolt seems the most natural, less contrived way versus using the crappy crimp and diagnoling across the direct bolt line which gives it the 12c grade, but this variation likely downgrades it to 11d or so, though the chalk indicates most do it the Easier way. Cool honeycomb pockets!